Tire roller?

here is the right front. If it goes any closer it rubs the spindle bolt. I am working on the left now.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20201121_234926185.jpg
    PXL_20201121_234926185.jpg
    77.9 KB · Views: 16

OVALTECH1

Premium User
here is the right front. If it goes any closer it rubs the spindle bolt. I am working on the left now.
You will gain clearance as you center up the spindle in the L block. Center them both up then you will have lots of room for cross adjustments and or ride height adjustments. That’s an older chassis so it safe to start off pretty neutral with baseline setup.
 

XXX#40

2A supporter
You will gain clearance as you center up the spindle in the L block. Center them both up then you will have lots of room for cross adjustments and or ride height adjustments. That’s an older chassis so it safe to start off pretty neutral with baseline setup.
2000 nemesis, look at the waist compared to your R1, the difference is in the width of the front end.
Still a Nemy so it should run a little higher cross than others during that time, except for the R1....
It will also require the LR the hardest tire on the kart, and at its fastest it will blister the RF
 
Okay so I lowered my LF and centered up my RF. I've got them both as close in as I can get them without them hitting the spindle arms now. What else you got? I'm hopefully going to meet up with rain Man this week and he's going to help me scale it but I Don't want to have to sit around and fix stuff.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20201122_094512360.jpg
    PXL_20201122_094512360.jpg
    43.8 KB · Views: 10
  • PXL_20201122_094454271.jpg
    PXL_20201122_094454271.jpg
    76.3 KB · Views: 10

OVALTECH1

Premium User
I would lightly make yourself some clearance with a grinder or find a very thin spacer to make a bit more clearance on that rim to spindle. These aren’t taper bearings they move a bit when side loaded especially after they get a few races on them. Unfortunately every persons body type is different so even with your best laid plan you will more than likely still be taking time to move and adjust things to get your numbers just right. But that looks good and should be a good start. Don’t forget wear the shoes you plan to race in and bring your helmet and neck collar. You would be surprised how the numbers differ by moving your head around or removing your helmet.
 

OVALTECH1

Premium User
also if you get to a point when trying to get your cross number that it looks like your going to have to move a ton of washers..... and it would make your spindles look like the previous pictures you posted. Adjust from the other side a bit... just go the opposite way.
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
That is a little close .
Don't grind on the steering arm . They are weak enough as is .
Use one of the small spacers or a flat washer . Ideally you want an 1/8th inch .
 
When u say frame rail are u saying the frame tub that gos to your where your spindle bolts on. Flattop u have help me out before as I am going to be racing in my for frist time in dirt karts I have a older ultramax centerforce can I set my tires to these settings as well then go from there because right now I have all for hubs all the way out on my spindles
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
When u say frame rail are u saying the frame tub that gos to your where your spindle bolts on. Flattop u have help me out before as I am going to be racing in my for frist time in dirt karts I have a older ultramax centerforce can I set my tires to these settings as well then go from there because right now I have all for hubs all the way out on my spindles
Not sure what the first sentence means , don't grind on anything especially frame tubes they're only .060-.080 thick .
Yes set it up with both fronts in close . Rr a 1/8th + and left rear I'm going to say 1 1/2 or whatever gets you to 38 .5 tread width .
 
Okay because I don't have like the pills front end it's just with just my washers to adjust on right side and then I can turn them both on the left side to adjust up and down on my spindle so I just have a round tube with two bearings that are welded right onto my frame are you talking about 1/8 inch or an inch and a half away from there to my tire or the actual two tubes that bolt that are welded to wear your spindle and stuff bolts onto for the measuring distance
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
No the arm the tie rod connects too . Center the washers or jack bolt . Move the front tires in as close as you can too the chassis without rubbing anything .
 
Last edited:
Not sure what the first sentence means , don't grind on anything especially frame tubes they're only .060-.080 thick .
Yes set it up with both fronts in close . Rr a 1/8th + and left rear I'm going to say 1 1/2 or whatever gets you to 38 .5 tread width .
What is this tread with you speak of.
38.5 is the measurement alot use from outside RR to outside LR where the tread touches the ground or where the tire starts to cup. Its a tough measurement to take so i think these guys are telling you to measure from the frame to the inside of the wheels
 
My front is 39 I think I can get that extra half inch but the back I have to wait till my rim finishes drying. Should they be even 38.5 in the front and 38.5 in the back?
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
No .
Careful you don't get advice confused . Two people asking questions in the same thread .
The axle remains pretty centered the wheel offset and hub placement takes care of everything. Set it up so that your RS tire and wheel is 3/8” off the framerail and your LS is 3/4” to 1” off it’s framerail as well.
This will do it it may measure 38.5 . Or may be a little less .
 
Top