You will gain clearance as you center up the spindle in the L block. Center them both up then you will have lots of room for cross adjustments and or ride height adjustments. That’s an older chassis so it safe to start off pretty neutral with baseline setup.here is the right front. If it goes any closer it rubs the spindle bolt. I am working on the left now.
2000 nemesis, look at the waist compared to your R1, the difference is in the width of the front end.You will gain clearance as you center up the spindle in the L block. Center them both up then you will have lots of room for cross adjustments and or ride height adjustments. That’s an older chassis so it safe to start off pretty neutral with baseline setup.
Not sure what the first sentence means , don't grind on anything especially frame tubes they're only .060-.080 thick .When u say frame rail are u saying the frame tub that gos to your where your spindle bolts on. Flattop u have help me out before as I am going to be racing in my for frist time in dirt karts I have a older ultramax centerforce can I set my tires to these settings as well then go from there because right now I have all for hubs all the way out on my spindles
Not sure what the first sentence means , don't grind on anything especially frame tubes they're only .060-.080 thick .
Yes set it up with both fronts in close . Rr a 1/8th + and left rear I'm going to say 1 1/2 or whatever gets you to 38 .5 tread width .
38.5 is the measurement alot use from outside RR to outside LR where the tread touches the ground or where the tire starts to cup. Its a tough measurement to take so i think these guys are telling you to measure from the frame to the inside of the wheelsWhat is this tread with you speak of.
This will do it it may measure 38.5 . Or may be a little less .The axle remains pretty centered the wheel offset and hub placement takes care of everything. Set it up so that your RS tire and wheel is 3/8” off the framerail and your LS is 3/4” to 1” off it’s framerail as well.