Triton Set-Up Changes

G

GAKARTER

Member
Generally speaking, when going from a medium to high bite, 1/5 mile, wide open track to a 1/4 mile low to medium bite, long straight-a ways, tight turns track...what would be the best types of changes to make in a Triton chassis set-up?
 
GAKARTER said:
Generally speaking, when going from a medium to high bite, 1/5 mile, wide open track to a 1/4 mile low to medium bite, long straight-a ways, tight turns track...what would be the best types of changes to make in a Triton chassis set-up?
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You should be able to work with your same baseline set-up, but adjust your tire program accordingly.
 
I would want to know the radius of the turns. A quarter-mile track is about 300 feet longer than a 1/5 mile track. If that extra 300 feet is in those straightaways, then the turn radius' are the same. It would seem to me that balancing the stagger between the turns and the straights would be important. Less stagger would help you down the straights, but it would be a trade-off in the corners.

Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
 
alvin l nunley said:
I would want to know the radius of the turns. A quarter-mile track is about 300 feet longer than a 1/5 mile track. If that extra 300 feet is in those straightaways, then the turn radius' are the same. It would seem to me that balancing the stagger between the turns and the straights would be important. Less stagger would help you down the straights, but it would be a trade-off in the corners.

Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
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Never been to the 1/4 mile track before, so don't have dimensions for turns. Only heard others who have been there talk about the tighter turns. I do agree that I "may" have to put a little more rear stagger in to make the turns better negotiable, while considering, as you said, the trade off with staight-a-way speed. Will also depend on how well the track bites up in the corners too. Thanks for the comment.
 
Straight away speed means nothing if you can't get through the corners. Worry about getting the kart to handle well and all else should fall into place.
 
Hotelcalifornia is correct 1-1/2 front and 1" rear, what track are you referring to I live in ga and have raced at most tracks around here maybe I can help
 
What you run at Dawgwood will work at Bear Ridge to start off with. I wouldn't do anything too extreme. Rodney is prepping the track and there will be alot of karts for a lot of grip. If your running Els you might need to take out some cross but you can do that threw out the day.

Keep it simple and you will be fast.
 
I agree that I wouldn't make any changes just because I was going somewhere new as long as the track was roughly 1/5 mile. Once I got there and rode the kart I might put more or less bite in the front end (using camber, castor and lead) or I might change the rear stagger, but I'd typically do this at the track once I'd ridden the kart. The only real exception to this for me is when I'm going to a track I know needs something different than one I've been at previously. In this case it's not a "what should I change..." question, it's an "I know I need to change..."

Todd
www.dynamicsofspeed.com
 
fstjohn said:
Todd which way would you go wth castor and lead to get more bite
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Im not Todd but the answer more bite in front with caster is to lower caster, more bite in rear raise caster. Most of the time, and i mean like 99.9% you will leave caster as is.
Moving the RF to rear position adds more bite if your block is in front. Once again most have this in rear position as is.

Camber is the 1 adjustment that is most commonly made at track concerning front end.
 
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