trying to understand cam logic more

Well Im running a huge oval, not much let off in the corners so I need top end, but I would like to have enough bottom end to get up and going, Im using a Tilly 304wx and have a 16/54 gear ratio,
 
The intake valve has an opening point and a closing point.
The exhaust valve has an opening point and a closing point.
The INTAKE CLOSING POINT is the most critical valve timing point because it determines the powerband of your engine.
The intake closing point can be changed by: 1- adding or subtracting duration 2- changing the lobe separation angle 3- advancing or retarding the camshaft 4- changing the valve lash
Earlier intake closing = more POTENTIAL bottom end power
Later intake closing = more POTENTIAL top end power
More lift = more POTENTIAL power at any rpm
Less lift = less POTENTIAL power at any rpm
I use the word potential because every combination is different and anything can be taken too far.
Tim
Interesting info .
 
My vote is not much . Certainly some miniscule design difference .
But they been using camshafts since at least 1909 .
 
Good afternoon. I have a china clone motor, Features: 70mm piston, 18cc head, 27.5mm inlet 25.5 outlet valve. The camshaft is standard but its base is reduced to increase the lift, now the lift is + 1mm (0.270) to the standard camshaft. Springs 26lb, HD champions rockers. Carburetor Chinese clone Keihin 30mm. ARC connecting rod, flywheel aluminum PVL. This motor works with a dry clutch to enable 2500 rpm. And it is used in karting.

I would like to change the camshaft, and add the cam duration, But I am in Russia, and for me it is quite an expensive job, so I chose 2 not very expensive camshafts:

1) Camshaft, Dyno Cams Mod 2 - GX200
2) Camshaft, 272 Mongoose Performance Cam

They have about the same duration, but the Dyno Cams lift is the same as the standard shaft, I'm afraid it will give less improvement over Mongoose. ??? I would like to achieve more cylinder fill and longer intake time.

On races I use a motor with revs from 3000 rpm to 8500 rpm.

We are also now negotiating and developing an adjustable ignition for our motor. We have one ignition sample, and we are testing it, it means adjusting the advance angle to 10000 rpm.


Sorry if it sounds a little confusing, I used google translate.
 
I would agree . the mongoose would be my choice .
What is the source or manufacturer ?
The ignition sounds interesting keep us informed if it comes about .
 
I would agree . the mongoose would be my choice .
What is the source or manufacturer ?
The ignition sounds interesting keep us informed if it comes about .
it will be a homemade ignition, my friend is now adapting it, we have the first prototype on which we are testing. It consists of a control unit with display, a sensor for the flywheel, and a coil for the moto scooter, it requires power from a battery or an integrated generator coil.
 
We used induction sensor is used that reacts to the flywheel magnet, the opening points of the sensor and its closing points, and the continuation between the points are also set. Thus, the ignition is adjusted to each motor. Now we have the following parameters for ignition advance: 0-1000 rpm 5 degrees in order to better start the engine, up to 1000-2500 rpm 15 degrees, 2500-4500 30 degrees, up to 4500-6000 35 degrees, and up to 6000-9500 38 degrees.
 
The single fire ignition modification on the Harley v twin worked good .
In the 80's they had a local class here; any 5hp flathead, stock bore & stroke, stock valves, cam lift rule, carb bore rule.
We drilled and tapped the cam for a shaft through the block, sealed with a Briggs throttle shaft lip seal. We made a small cam lobe attached with a set screw to operate a set of points under the flywheel to ground out the coil during overlap. The old tachs read 1/2 the actual RPM and the engine had a slightly deeper sound. It made a slight increase in upper RPM power,, about the same torque peak. Gave us a minor advantage.
The class was good for us Saturday night racers and backyard builders.

Best, WP
 
Any chance of a schematic for this digital ignition .
We have made 3 prototypes. 2 of them are powered by a flywheel magnet. And we made one to read the steel plate on the flywheel. And during testing we encountered a problem, the system with a magnet failed, a high-voltage transformer burned out in them. And the System on a steel plate is still working, but we noticed that the angle that we set and the angle according to the straboscope are slightly different by about 5 degrees.

We have a control unit, a magnetic or inductive sensor, and a coil from a motorcycle. Power is supplied from 12V or the built-in electrical system in the motor.


Sorry i used Translator.
 
OK
so you have adaped various components .
the control unit isthe key component .
a control unit with display , and adjustment , where would that be sourced ?
 
OK
so you have adaped various components .
the control unit isthe key component .
a control unit with display , and adjustment , where would that be sourced ?
the module has buttons and a display, where we use the formula to calculate the constants depending on the position of the sensor and the flywheel diaseter. for each motor, its own values are obtained. then we set the angles for different revolutions. Yes, the entered angle and the actual angle are different, so online tuning is required on the running motor.
 
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