Understeer center off

according to every kart manufacturer set up sheet i have ever seen that kart is nose heavy and has to much positive left front. You know more than charger, ultramax, slack and phantom? why does it snap loose if you were able to navigate to the apex. turning the wheels is like putting on the breaks. you are transferring weight to the front end of a kart that is already over loaded. i'm not advocating for a light rear end. adding nose % is not a cure for a pushing kart. if you have a lot of lead in the nose it transfers ahead of the mass of the kart creating lots of push.
slowing down (i.e. turning the front wheels, letting off throttle, or brakes) transfers weight to the front. accelerating transfers weight to the rear. if its too heavy on the scales it will be worse in motion.
 
+4 camber his left front is on the outer edge of the tread. hes looking for more grip reducing that camber will put more rubber on the track
 
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im also advocating putting more weight on the rear to lighten the front not lighten the rear. hes not snapping loose he's pushing.
 
im also advocating putting more weight on the rear to lighten the front not lighten the rear. hes not snapping loose he's pushing.
That's exactly what I'm pointing out to you, I'm simply saying to much nose will show up as loose on entry 98 times out of a 100 VS showing up as push on exit, more contact patch LESS RF neg camber yes will help it turn, BUT that does not work the same on the LF, MORE LF pos camber will help it turn at least up to .75 not less, with that being said it's not the adjustment I would go to.
 
+4 camber his left front is on the outer edge of the tread. hes looking for more grip reducing that camber will put more rubber on the track
I'm taking it as he has .4 little less than 1/2 .5, NOT + 4, he has everything else close to more normal so why would he put +4 in it.
 
I'm taking it as he has .4 little less than 1/2 .5, NOT + 4, he has everything else close to more normal so why would he put +4 in it.

Yes, I forgot a decimal, LF camber +.4 a little under +1/2

And my thought on adding nose was based on the Seraph liking a higher nose on dirt.
I’m not dead set on any adjustments yet. KJ26 hasn’t led me wrong thus far, so I’ll try what he suggests, and if It doesn't get me where I want to be I’ll try adding nose, and see where that gets me.

Are you comfortable in the seat ? Can you see ? If yes then don’t move it up.

I can see enough, ha.
 
Yes, I forgot a decimal, LF camber +.4 a little under +1/2

And my thought on adding nose was based on the Seraph liking a higher nose on dirt.
I’m not dead set on any adjustments yet. KJ26 hasn’t led me wrong thus far, so I’ll try what he suggests, and if It doesn't get me where I want to be I’ll try adding nose, and see where that gets me.



I can see enough, ha.
Smart move try KJ's adjustments first, then your on the right path if you need more, only thing not mentioned then would be less RF neg camber.
Good Luck !!
 
.4 still too high when the range is 0-.25 that is nearly twice what is recommended. the wheel is rolling too far to the outside edge especially running high air pressure compared to dirt. if the idea is to get more traction it's there without changing everything else.
 
Adding camber to the LF might make the front end react a little more. If you're worried about too low VCG then maybe less leftside?
 
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Pretty sure they made a different caster block and spindle for asphalt /coke syrup . Creating less jacking effect . Adding more positive camber seems like the wrong direction .
 
Pretty sure they made a different caster block and spindle for asphalt /coke syrup . Creating less jacking effect . Adding more positive camber seems like the wrong direction .
Correct they make a 5* block & spindle. Some tracks it works others it don’t.
 
How are you in lap times? Competitive? Are you running the asphalt LR? Do you have the "Wiggy"? Is it straight up, in a bind, or locked?

For a Seraph- the nose is fine.

It getting better raising air 2# on the left- tells me the left side is a little low on weight.

I think your cross is extremely low, especially for a Seraph- unless the weld has been cut.

I would add a little air all around, or possibly a worn (thin) LR if you are competitive.

A Seraph should be faster than every kart ever made off the corner when you hit the tires right- it's just an extremely narrow tire window (a kart designed during the Firestone right sides/kill the tires with bite at the track era). Also ran a little more Front stagger (1 5/8 - 1 3/4) Due to the Stones mounting up a little big and them being trash after 2 races (40-50laps)

You will have to try scuffs, thins and new tire combinations till you hit on something, since it's no prep and you are limited.

Also, sliding the left rear on this kart can sometimes do the opposite of the tuning result you expected- incase you tune with this adjustment.
 
This is what I would set it on. I believe moving the RF block back decreased the need for as much nose weight. And karts these days that are produced by phantom have leaned more towards lower nose. So this is the set up I would try.

RF and LF in rear holes
47 nose
59 left
.25 lf camber
Same RF
1/8 more rear stagger
4 and 7 caster

That's it. Too much front weight can make you push coming out of the turn. I've learned this the hard way. I don't care what any kart calls for, I just won't go over 47 nose unless it's for a little kid
 
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