Valve Job Price

sundog

Member
What's it generally cost to get valve guides, seats, valves replaced with seats cut and lapped real special good on an LO206 RT1 head?

Asking for a friend.
Thanks,
Sundog
 
Is it normal for a new head to wear out in one season using 4T? The guides are so loose the valve beat the seat way out of round.
 
I doubt that the 4T had anything to do with it since most everyone runs it without these problems.
 
Are the guides actually worn? It's common for the seats to get a little out of round after the first handful of heat cyclesbon a new head. We generally have ours touched up after 4 hours or so then once a year after.
 
A well seasoned head might be worth it? but still don't know the cost. New head is about $200. What are we talking an extra $30 for the re-work?

This thing was getting oil through the intake guide. You should see the top of the piston, thick black coating, looks like lava ran through there then cooled.

Valve measures .2477" and guide measures .2495".
 
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A well seasoned head might be worth it? but still don't know the cost. New head is about $200. What are we talking an extra $30 for the re-work?

This thing was getting oil through the intake guide. You should see the top of the piston, thick black coating, looks like lava ran through there then cooled.

Valve measures .2477" and guide measures .2495".
.0018” clearance isn’t bad. You don’t want them too tight.
 
Lots of oil in the combustion chamber can also be caused by an internal head gasket leak in the thin area between the cylinder and oiling chamber that is next to the intake of the cylinder and head.
 
Keep in mind that while you can seal valves/seats by lapping, there's no substitute for refacing/machining the seats properly. Cupped valves and seats hurt airflow. Narrow intake seat interface is best for flow. "High and tight," I like to say.


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Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
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Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
I used Napa Balk Amp 765 1524 valve grinding compound which I believe is pretty standard silicon carbide in a grease base. It's course and it cuts fast with a drill motor on the valve stem. Then I cleaned up and switched to an 800 aluminum oxide in a heavy oil base and used my suction cup hand lapper for the final frosting. I hand lapped it a while then felt the drag increase. I thought this was a sign, so I cleaned it up and it leak checked good. I don't advise using the drill motor unless it's really out of wack.

Still don't know what a valve job cost lol.

Sundog
 
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