Viper clutch

Are these clutches just as good, better or worse than the bully clutch?
Looking at getting one to drag race a mini bike with.
Also, parts availability for every piece is out there you guys were saying?
 
Most consumable parts are interchangeable, ie friction discs, drivers, baskets.

Personally, I prefer genuine Bully clutches, but any of these other clutches can be made to work well -- it's really all in the machining, set-up, and proper maintenance.


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There is a $70 difference between the two being that bully costs more.
Is viper the better bang for the buck?
It seems right now bully is out of stock for the 1” clutch Till mid January.
maybe I should just wait for it.
 
They should be considerably less (depending on the retailer you purchase from.)
We stock Bully clutches -- I have my personal 4 disc 1 inch clutch available (been ran once and looks like brand new) if you are interested.
We can also get you a viper(-ish) clutch if that's what you want.
 
Some people paint the springs. With the OC/Gator/Viper being the second best selling platform, there are many builders doing their own thing for product recognition.

The gold .085" wire springs are the only ones I have made a chart for, as there are very few people using them. I can email that to anyone who needs it.

The standard .090" wire spring as supplied is a raw steel/silver in appearance. It is noticeably longer than a Bully spring, which is one of the main keys to the clutch working properly.

When Tim Baker first designed the clutch, we used the Yellow spring from the Horstman enduro axle clutch as this removed any sensitivity to air gap from the clutch. A Viper style clutch will still work even if the air gap is as tight as .020" or as loose as .060"
A good starting point for 3800 rpm on a stock clone is .430" using a Bully brand spring height gauge.

The spring is fairly linear so a .020" change in height is "about" 200 rpm. Above .450" it is less than 200, and below .380" it is slightly more than 200rpm.

Depending on lever style, as there are about 12 different lever style available, that is a good guideline to follow.

Shannon Halbert and James Raines use a different style retainer than I am familiar with, so if they built your clutch, you may need to contact them to get a good ballpark height to start with.

The main thing to keep in mind, is make sure springs are from same batch (or matched) and that you are consistant in your settings. Buy a Bully brand spring height gauge, and check it often with the supplied calibration ring.
When using your listed spring height, Bully spring gauge and calibration ring. Am to zero the indicator at on the 0.040 Bully calibration ring? I ask because my spring retainers are .095, so should I set the top of my spring retainer at 0.525 to account for my 0.095 retainer or 0.485 to account for the 0.040 Bully calibration ring.
 
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I'm having trouble understanding the need for different Springs and different installed heights. Back in the dark ages (1990's) there were times when we ran two classes, KT 100 with a pipe or with a muffler. Obviously they needed different engagement RPMs. 8300 versus 10 300. We never change Springs, we just change the spring tension (turn the screws in her out)'s until the clutch reach the right RPM. This is with a Horstman clutch.
I understand setting the spring height when first assembling the clutch, but if the engine doesn't reach the right RPM coming out of the corner, what is wrong with changing the height of the spring until the clutch slips at peak torque RPM?
 
In my mind it would be negative .055 with the .040 calibration ring .
You want zero at .095 height .
Making a calibration block/ring at .095 would be simplest.
File a piece of aluminum down or plastic or anything , hard wood , poker chip, penny .
 
Thats what you do in the end anyway .
Adjust the height to meet the need .
Set it and forget it is the new normal (maybe) .
 
I think it comes down to the motors ability to accelerate up to said rpm and having the spring that will help lighten or tighten up its venture to said rpm in a nice linear fashion. Much like saying valve spring A and valve spring B can both be installed at said installed height but only one can prevent shocking the valve train and sending things into valve float.
 
When using your listed spring height, Bully spring gauge and calibration ring. Am to zero the indicator at on the 0.040 Bully calibration ring? I ask because my spring retainers are .095, so should I set the top of my spring retainer at 0.525 to account for my 0.095 retainer or 0.485 to account for the 0.040 Bully calibration ring.


Jenkin,

Calibrate your Bully brand gauge with the supplied ring. Set to .000"

Use the chart without correction, as it is based off the stock retainer, accounting for the intended thickness if .095"

If you wanted to get things closer, make sure all six retainers are the exact thickness. If one is too tall, you can flat sand the TOP of the retainer to make sure they are all equal.

go to www.clutchbarn.com for a newer spring guide created by Brian Barnes.

For those who don't know, the Bully gauge touches the perimeter of the retainer.....not the screw.
 
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They should be considerably less (depending on the retailer you purchase from.)
We stock Bully clutches -- I have my personal 4 disc 1 inch clutch available (been ran once and looks like brand new) if you are interested.
We can also get you a viper(-ish) clutch if that's what you want.

how much?
 
Some people paint the springs. With the OC/Gator/Viper being the second best selling platform, there are many builders doing their own thing for product recognition.

The gold .085" wire springs are the only ones I have made a chart for, as there are very few people using them. I can email that to anyone who needs it.

The standard .090" wire spring as supplied is a raw steel/silver in appearance. It is noticeably longer than a Bully spring, which is one of the main keys to the clutch working properly.

When Tim Baker first designed the clutch, we used the Yellow spring from the Horstman enduro axle clutch as this removed any sensitivity to air gap from the clutch. A Viper style clutch will still work even if the air gap is as tight as .020" or as loose as .060"
A good starting point for 3800 rpm on a stock clone is .430" using a Bully brand spring height gauge.

The spring is fairly linear so a .020" change in height is "about" 200 rpm. Above .450" it is less than 200, and below .380" it is slightly more than 200rpm.

Depending on lever style, as there are about 12 different lever style available, that is a good guideline to follow.

Shannon Halbert and James Raines use a different style retainer than I am familiar with, so if they built your clutch, you may need to contact them to get a good ballpark height to start with.

The main thing to keep in mind, is make sure springs are from same batch (or matched) and that you are consistant in your settings. Buy a Bully brand spring height gauge, and check it often with the supplied calibration ring.
Can you email me the gold spring chart please davemeineke@gmail.com
 
Some people paint the springs. With the OC/Gator/Viper being the second best selling platform, there are many builders doing their own thing for product recognition.

The gold .085" wire springs are the only ones I have made a chart for, as there are very few people using them. I can email that to anyone who needs it.

The standard .090" wire spring as supplied is a raw steel/silver in appearance. It is noticeably longer than a Bully spring, which is one of the main keys to the clutch working properly.

When Tim Baker first designed the clutch, we used the Yellow spring from the Horstman enduro axle clutch as this removed any sensitivity to air gap from the clutch. A Viper style clutch will still work even if the air gap is as tight as .020" or as loose as .060"
A good starting point for 3800 rpm on a stock clone is .430" using a Bully brand spring height gauge.

The spring is fairly linear so a .020" change in height is "about" 200 rpm. Above .450" it is less than 200, and below .380" it is slightly more than 200rpm.

Depending on lever style, as there are about 12 different lever style available, that is a good guideline to follow.

Shannon Halbert and James Raines use a different style retainer than I am familiar with, so if they built your clutch, you may need to contact them to get a good ballpark height to start with.

The main thing to keep in mind, is make sure springs are from same batch (or matched) and that you are consistant in your settings. Buy a Bully brand spring height gauge, and check it often with the supplied calibration ring.
Hi Michael could you email me the spring chart by chance? Dunnrightcarpentry207@gmail.com
 
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