Welding pipes

flattop1

flattop1

Dawg 89
I been working on a old pipe .
Short welds are ok the long ones tend too drop out .
I know I should be cleaning the inside , first but I'm not .
What I am thinking is if I were purging then that would help support the weld .
That or I may need to go with horizontal then gravity won't pull the molten metal out of the pool .
Ideas , comments and suggestions welcome ....:giggle:
 
I have 30 years experience welding pipes. You're going to slow, you getting a heat buildup, that he has to go somewhere. You didn't say what you were using to weld the pipes with, gas, tig. Use a smaller tip, less gas, less electricity.
 
Tig , yea I'm pretty sure I'm too slow along with can't see well and haven't tig`d
In several years . I blew it out with my mig as well .
So what about purging . The tig guys we had on the job could make a weld poke out with the purge pressure . Of course they were better then me then and now .
 
Clean is your friend. It sounds as if some or all the parts are from used exhaust pipes? If so, I would get everything hot-tanked first.

And while welding pipes with no purging is routinely done -- I would try to stack all the odds in my favor and purge the inside. It can't hurt, and may make things better... so why not?

And yes: keep it moving! Speed is your friend on thin material. :)

PM
 
flattop1 said:
Tig , yea I'm pretty sure I'm too slow along with can't see well and haven't tig`d
In several years . I blew it out with my mig as well .
So what about purging . The tig guys we had on the job could make a weld poke out with the purge pressure . Of course they were better then me then and now .
Click to expand...
You can try purging but that's not the purpose of doing it. I have my doubts that it will help.
 
purging is not necessary at all,be mindful of the heat buildup when you see it staring it get real just back off weld at lower setting once you get going you can do it it just a bit of a technique,best to practice on scraps to get all the settings and find the sweet spot,another thing,make sure you can rest wour hand while welding and it is well insulated,filler ron at 1/16,make sure the grease oil,rust is off the area where the weld is taking place,asteady hand is essental for a good weld.
 
Roger that . It was a dirty old pipe . And no foot pedal .
Looking at them I think Buller is using a machine weld .
I have seen some pretty good welders , these are just too perfect .
Maybe even sub arc .
I just don't see how you could mechanically rotate a pipe easily to get the cones .
High amp and fast travel .
 
rick beaver said:
there has to be a remote amperage of either to have it successfull good luck.
Click to expand...
Try using .040 tungsten with a very sharp tip and .040 rod. Then use about 1amp per .001 inch of thickness. For example use max 30 amps for .030 thick sheet metal. If the seams between the cones are flat you will be able to fusion weld and use very little rod.
 
Thanks , tenney . Its warming up now , i was just looking at them again today .
Pretty sure i had a 3/32 tungsten . Definitely not .040 .
 
Use the o.o40 tungsten and adjust your heat to your speed, without a pedal set it cold to start and go real slow, once the metal warms you can go faster. But a Pedal is your friend
 
rocketman said:
Use the o.o40 tungsten and adjust your heat to your speed, without a pedal set it cold to start and go real slow, once the metal warms you can go faster. But a Pedal is your friend
Click to expand...
Try the lanthenated (blue strip) tungsten. I use it for steel and aluminum. and really like it. Maintains a good crisp arc.
 
Using the setup that you have with out a way to control your amperage it will be hard. I've used that setup many times welding in the navy, on different things, and always has to have someone to control the gas flow.
From what I can see is your heat is is to high and your travel speed to to slow. What you can do is weld a little on each end of the crack and let it totally cool, then repeat.
 
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