What is this caster setting in the two pics?

Tough1

New member
The caster block with 2 lines is the right front and the single line is the left front. I'm just trying to figure out what it is set at. 03 Ultramax Blaze Octane. I believe factory is 8 and 10 degrees when center. A guy told me to just use the front line on the right front, just checking to make sure that is good info. Seems to me that the right front is forward (less caster) one spot, since I look at both lines. If right is 10 degrees when centered, I am reading 8 degrees, but I've been wrong on every other thing on the kart other than the motor. If you look at just the front line, it would be at 12 degrees. ???????
Cast1.jpg
Cast2.jpg
 
The 2 lines on the RF are because there are 2 settings for the caster block, forward, or back. The lines correspond with which setting you are using.

I would say you are in the front setting.
If the center mark on the caster block is 10 degrees, caster would be 12. You can verify by setting kart on a level surface and placing an angle finder against the spindle barrel.
 
My eyes are getting bad, probably the reason why I can't see any caster at all. How can you tell?
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I think on this each line is 2 * on block, because there's 2 lines on frame there's front hole and back hole, line more toward top of front of kart is for front hole, line on frame lower or more towards seat is rear hole.
 
The reason I ask is because of this. It's the right side spindle yoke for a kart. 12° caster, no kingpin inclination. It's an old drawing.
top down 12 spindale.jpg
 
Someone correct me if I’m wrong but as most blocks go he’s got the right side forward at 10* and the left side back at 8*.
 
Not only can I say it, I have a pretty good understanding of what it means. What is your understanding?
If this is true, then you already know you have a different perspective than that which is required to see what is there, or even what you expect to be there.
The kart in the picture was built after steering spindle yokes had evolved, but not quite to where modern caster L blocks are now.
 
Someone correct me if I’m wrong but as most blocks go he’s got the right side forward at 10* and the left side back at 8*.
I'm not sure as If 2 holes usually 2 lines on frame, RF has 2 lines but LF only 1 so is there a front or back on LF, right now I'm looking at RF is in front hole set at 10 agreeing with you, LF not sure If it's only 1 hole if lines on block 2 degree incriminates like RF, OR center notch represents certain factory built in number, which I wouldn't think that to be the case. Now I'm confused but that's pretty easy now days, I'm thinking 10 RF and 10 LF.
 
There are 7 notches on the caster plate.
If the center notch is factory setting, both are 1 notch more negative caster than factory.

Both plates are rolled top to the rear.
 
When KJ26 says forward he means it is leading the RF. If it is pushing/sliding the rf or tight on entry, move the RF lower portion back and use the 2nd mark on the frame to set it. I'm gonna say 6 and 8, based on the info below, i'm not 100% if thats true to your frame it was generic ultramax article i found

Step 3 – Setting your Caster
Each chassis comes with the right front caster set at 10° and the left front caster set at 8°. These settings are obtained when both sides have the center notches lined up on the caster blocks as shown with the left front in the center picture below. For almost all conditions, these caster settings will be a good starting point. However, there are certain situations where a different setting may be desired for a better weight jacking effect. For this case, both the right front and left front caster blocks come equipped with three lines both forward and backward from the original notch. Each line forward or backward is a 2° change in caster. Therefore, on the right front you can go as low as 4° of caster or as high as 16° of caster. Similarly, on the left front you can go as low as 2° of caster or as high as 14° of caster. The following figures illustrate how this works using the left front as an example with the picture on the left set at 6°, the middle at 8° and the right at 10°.

Caster is built into a racing chassis to promote weight transfer, which is a major factor in producing the bite necessary to negotiate each corner on the track. Generally, more caster will produce more weight transfer and more bite and less caster will produce less weight transfer and less bite.

So, on high speed, hard biting racetracks, less caster will be needed since the racetrack itself will be producing most of the necessary bite. Similarly, on low speed, low biting racetracks, more caster will be needed in order to produce the necessary amount of bite in the chassis.
 
I am seeing 10 left 12 right .

There are 7 notches on the caster plate.
If the center notch is factory setting, both are 1 notch more negative caster than factory.

Both plates are rolled top to the rear.
Correct IF center notches represent a certain number, that's not the way I'm ( others ) are taking it now, NOT saying that's right, are you saying your sure it's the way your looking at it ? I'm not disputing that.
 
Correct IF center notches represent a certain number, that's not the way I'm ( others ) are taking it now, NOT saying that's right, are you saying your sure it's the way your looking at it ? I'm not disputing that.
Just read racinnuts post that pretty much clairfies center notches represents factory numbers.
 
Forget about the markings an measure it. I prefer to simply use a digital level rather then a caster camber gauge. I have seen karts where the marks were made incorrectly.
 
Someone correct me if I’m wrong but as most blocks go he’s got the right side forward at 10* and the left side back at 8*.
The reason I said what I did is because almost every kart we’ve ever owned and others I’ve worked on the left side block first notch is always 0 and the right front is 2. The only exception is our Slack Pursuit starts at 4 on the right front.
But after reading racinnuts post, ultramax may be different lol.
 
each manufacturer welds the caster system in the karts, centered and at the degree's they determined to be best for that chassis.
Each mark on the plate represents 2 deg. of adjustment.
The picture with 2 center marks has RF lead adjustment, and it is in the front position as its suppose to be, and someone has added 2 degrees more caster to it, as well as the LF
 
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