When should I no longer see metal fragments in oil....?

Actually what little bit you are going to take off is of no performance gain. Now If I were to see where there was a lot taken off then I go into the mode of; OK what is going on here. Page 7 of the rule book.
 
this could also be from the cam bosses in the block and side cover due to excessive side clearance (cam walk). I have found that too much will beat the side cover and loosen the bolts as well.
 
4 practices (light & heavy), 2 heats(light & heavy), change the oil, then 2 mains (light & heavy) change 2 or sometimes 3 times per weekend depends on length of heats and mains...street sprint racing 2 day events
 
Keep changing it until it clears up. I break mine in on the dyno 2 - 3 heat cycles change the oil, run it on the dyno 3 or 4 pulls, change the oil, put it on the kart, run it 2 practice sessions, it usually cleans up by then if not I start watching it carefully and get ready to tear it down after the weekend of racing..if it lasts that long. Then I go to my normal 2 practices, 2 heats and then change, then 2 mains and start all over again next week...should buy stock in a kart oil company
 
That is not right in any fashion, you better get inside before you start it again. You are lucky it has lasted this long. Those are not filings they are parts. I go back to my original statement I don't expect to see any bits on the first oil change.
 
Well something's not right haha.... Checkout the pics here...
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dplusn5meecz29o/0-AIiUVo_q
If you click "more options" on the bottom right, then "view original" you can zoom in quite nicely.

No idea what's been floating around in there but I guess it was steel or something else harder than aluminum. Can't think of what it might be though, camshaft and valvetrain are in good shape, no sign of bits missing from them or anything like that. The motor was running "OK", no nasty noises at all but something has been eating at it all along the oil splash path. The piston skirt got hit, rod got blasted, block and the base of the cylinder...
Time for a max legal stroke crank I guess.

Any ideas what might have caused this? I guess a foreign body but I was pretty fussy and clean putting this thing together.
 
The rod bearing damage was done by tiny fillings,in the lube oil But Damn something bigger is/was definatlty going on here,and it was hard and fairly big... .spread the engine out and post more pics. You don't want to see this ever again,I'm sure
 
Yeah figured the rod bearing got munched with the crap floating in the oil. Hadn't started knocking yet though, not bad for a $5 rod haha. I guess whatever it was it disintegrated beyond a trace from what I can tell.
Could this block be used for AKRA stock with all those lumps taken out of it.
 
I have ran into this same situation before. The compression release lever that is in the camshaft came out some how and done about this same amount of damage. Just something to look at maybe.
 
Don't see why the block couldn't be used again, these alloy blocks are pretty tough,but do a real good inspection,You really need to know what went on here. More pics please of the engine spread out; when you get time.
Thanks and sorry Dave
 
This had to be caused by something in the bottom end as there is no way anything from the top could get there thru the drain back hole,when you view original and the zoom that you can see damage to the oil ring in the 4th picture.Are all the ball separators there on the crank bearings,the reluctor gear on the crank.I did heavy vehicle drive train failure analysis for a while this is up my alley.You wouldn't believe the havoc that a 400+ HP diesel will do to a truck drive line They can reek serious havoc trust me on this.
 
I knew a guy who used those metal flake additives to seal up a leaking valve seal. In the end, he fused his exhaust manifold to the block because the SG of the oil with additives changes the heat transfer. I would not use the stuff if you can avoid it. If you do, get a flow check at room temp and do one at running temps - the reading shouldn't be higher than 4X the baseline.
 
That's interesting, I'm surprised the oil flinger didn't break off with all those impact marks on it.
Maybe the engine got too hot and/or bore was too tight and it tried to seize and broke off a chunk of piston skirt which rattled inside the engine?
 
I knew a guy who used those metal flake additives to seal up a leaking valve seal. In the end, he fused his exhaust manifold to the block because the SG of the oil with additives changes the heat transfer. I would not use the stuff if you can avoid it. If you do, get a flow check at room temp and do one at running temps - the reading shouldn't be higher than 4X the baseline.

This is about the fourth senseless post you have made, you do not follow up and explain, clue us in or will have to assume you are clueless about the topic.
 
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