Where can I an engine dyno done at?
- Thread starter Blakec9
- Start date
CarlsonMotorsports
Site Supporter
Too big for most kart shops' dynos. The load cells on our ship's dynos are only rated to 50HP and replacing them have come at a premium. For that reason alone, we no longer dyno engines that we have not built.
You might check to see if someone has a chassis dyno that you could get it on. I'm sure JGR has the capability, not sure if they would be willing.
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Mike Cochrane
Member
if Honda is same as Yamaha,, you will need a tuner, like a obd2 for cars.. for Yamaha, it hit trouble codes, and allow you to change the tune, timing,rich-lean, traction control, rev limit,etc...
I am currently building a refi for 2 cycles, with Yamaha and vortex components, stay tuned...
if you have a mychron, you can down load soft ware, and it works like a rolling dyno.
I have used mychron on my engine dynos, mychron is a inertia dyno basically.. time/speed calculation.
I am currently building a refi for 2 cycles, with Yamaha and vortex components, stay tuned...
if you have a mychron, you can down load soft ware, and it works like a rolling dyno.
I have used mychron on my engine dynos, mychron is a inertia dyno basically.. time/speed calculation.
Mike Cochrane
Member
I might add, the Yamaha tuners are pretty costly, if you can find one, I got mine from Australia 700.00, if you use vortex ecu, the tuner is more costly, the vortex has built in ecu tunes., my local Yamaha shop has helped me.
Mike Cochrane
Member
a tuner will tell you the condition of the refi system, take it to a Honda dealer, they should be able to hook up a tuner, get trouble codes. if refi system is good, look at your engine, right now your just guessing and will just end up frustrated and shooting the money cannon at it
I understand what you saying EC, So this engine was totally rebuilt at the beginning of the season. Ran perfectly normal for the first 4 races. Started noticing it sounded like it was hitting the rev limiter around 9800 on the 5th race. Didn't think to much about it because this is the first season I used a TP sensor. Thought maybe that was normal.... Next race engine didn't want to turn over 9400 and again acted like a rev limiter. I thought it was electrical myself so I changed plug and coil at the track. No change. That week I replaced the entire electrical system and tested it at home. No change. Replaced entire fuels system at home and still no change. I have torn carb about multiple times and cleaned everything and have all new internals. I also replaced valve springs and piston rings even though I don't think that would be the cause. Last weekend I got the kart out and was able to turn 9100 but acts like I hit the rev limiter. I geared the kart down and only turned 8900 and it never acted like it was hitting the rev limiter. I was hoping to find someone with a Dyno that would allow me to scope the ignitions to see if that would tell me something. At this point I'm pretty lost as to what could be causing the issue. The engine ran fine the first 4 races....
flattop1
Dawg 89
If you have the capability to scope or monitor engine function .
Building a simlpe band or drum/ disk load center seems the best option .
Either off the rear axle , bad for the clutch though .
Or direct off the engine .
Someone with an adequate dyno , thats willing to let you play around for a day even with payment seems rare or non existent.
Building a simlpe band or drum/ disk load center seems the best option .
Either off the rear axle , bad for the clutch though .
Or direct off the engine .
Someone with an adequate dyno , thats willing to let you play around for a day even with payment seems rare or non existent.
Mike Cochrane
Member
if you have a mychron, download software, and your kart becomes a dyno.. which you can view on your computer..
Mike Cochrane
Member
if you get a air/fuel meter you will see if you have a rich/lean condition.... speedway motors sells them.
Stock cc's CRF450R Stock carb. The kart ran good on a 170 main jet. Once I started having issues I have been on everything from 165-178 main jet with no change. I would suspect the wiring also but I have replaced all the wiring with no change.
That was my next thought, building some sort of drum setup that can put the engine under a load. At this point I thought someone who built them would use a dyno but I am finding out that most people just throw parts on them and never actually dyno them.
Fuel lines are ran the same way they have always been ran, Tank to pump, pump to intake, pump to carb. I have changed out all fuel lines, filters, pump ext. with no change. I don't understand why going to a 160 main would help? Weather has changes some with higher temps and humidity but I'm not sure why I wouldn't of seen a change with the carb adjustments I already made? Open to all suggestions at this point. I appreciate it.
So you have no return line back to the tank? It could be putting to much fuel in the float bowl. It can just be to ritch and that will make it run like it is on a rev limiter. I use a pressure reg off a Honda odyssey with a return line back to the tank one other thing is what kill switch you use unhook it and give it a run?
Cmello, thanks for the input. I do have an issue where the float overflow constantly wants to push fuel out even though the float is set at spec. I have even tried to set it low to help fix this concern. This would make sense as to why the float overflow pushes fuel out. Do you think this would also cause the running issue? What PSI regulator are you using?