Who is considered the leader in clutch rebuilds?

R

rjcruiser44

Member
Who is considered the leader in clutch rebuilds and why? Do they have measurable data on each clutch rebuild? Is there measurable data to be had, other than " I get hella starts every time"?
 
Aside from a clutch dyno, there is no "measurable" data. And even at that, a clutch dyno can only be used for comparison purposes. It's not a true indicator of a well built clutch.

Communication, turn around time, consistency of the clutch's function, proper wear patterns...those are what consist of "leaders" in clutch building.

I rebuild a lot of clutches (134 since December 1st), but there are ALOT of great builders out there....Shannon Halbert, Ron Rollins, James Raines, etc.

Pick someone you feel comfortable with and go from there.
 
You can rebuild the clutch yourself as good as anyone, just get the parts and set it up to factor specs.
 
sundog said:
You can rebuild the clutch yourself as good as anyone, just get the parts and set it up to factor specs.
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You can assemble it, thats true. But unless you have a lathe or a surfacing machine, you wont be able to re-surface the plates back to factory run-out. Which at that point, kind of makes rebuilding the clutch useless. Kind of like putting new brake shoes on worn out and warped rotors.
 
Thank for the response JP. Is anyone using a clutch dyno? How do you ever know if a process or something that you changed to make it better actually worked?
I see that on clutch set up guides such as on the Bully tuning guide it says to bolt on x amount of weight on a clutch lever, I was always curious if there were variables that? Such as, pressure plate thickness/weight and such. I have not seen clutch weight levers where you can ad minute weight additions/subtractions, it just seems like you either bolt on one weight for adult or two for the JR class and there is no fine tuning other than spring gauge/height and weight.

Perhaps that's where I was curious if and where persons can see gains and how they were measured?
 
You can add or subtract a washer or two .
You could mill your weights down or custom make weights .
Drill holes in them to lighten or use a different material to make them heavier.
As stated finding the benefit. Thats where the expense and frustration comes in .
The current setups are tested and proven .
The average person would use lap times .
Could there be gains ; of course , at what cost and time vs gain is the real question .
 
rjcruiser44 said:
How do you ever know if a process or something that you changed to make it better actually worked?
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The more you pay the better it works if you drink that Coolaid. Have you tried to build one and it didn't work? Get a flat surface and sand paper to resurface your pressure plate. If you sand it often enough there won't be much to clean up. If it's really tore up send it out to a machine shop.

Sundog
 
rjcruiser44 said:
Thank for the response JP. Is anyone using a clutch dyno? How do you ever know if a process or something that you changed to make it better actually worked?
I see that on clutch set up guides such as on the Bully tuning guide it says to bolt on x amount of weight on a clutch lever, I was always curious if there were variables that? Such as, pressure plate thickness/weight and such. I have not seen clutch weight levers where you can ad minute weight additions/subtractions, it just seems like you either bolt on one weight for adult or two for the JR class and there is no fine tuning other than spring gauge/height and weight.

Perhaps that's where I was curious if and where persons can see gains and how they were measured?
Click to expand...

I know Ron Rollins (Stealth Clutches) uses a dyno. I can’t say for sure how he measures the performance of a clutch, but I know he does use one. I use one simply for stall speed setup and break in. The technical specifications provided by a clutch manufacture are spot on 99.9% of the time, but I like to double check just in case.

Plate thickness won’t effect the performance of the clutch, but air gap, weight, and spring stiffness will. The heavier the spring, the larger the air gap, and the heavier the lever, the “harder” the snap is. That isn’t always a good thing. It all depends on the application.

I have found that generally clutch manufacturers have done all the leg work for me to provide the right combinations for certain classes, it’s just up to me to set them up properly. I have tried some different combinations with success, but for stuff that goes out the door, generally use a “factory” setup.
 
sundog said:
The more you pay the better it works if you drink that Coolaid. Have you tried to build one and it didn't work? Get a flat surface and sand paper to resurface your pressure plate. If you sand it often enough there won't be much to clean up. If it's really tore up send it out to a machine shop.

Sundog
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Some of the stuff that comes in here, you could sand until you’re fingers bleed and still not get it far enough :).

This may be true for a clutch that’s only a few thousands out to begin with, but generally everything that comes my way has to be cut on a lathe first, then have surface finish done before building.

I do a fair bit of clutches for people that prefer me to machine their plates and then assemble themselves, and I charge half my labor rate to do that. Perfect for people who have the knowledge around clutches to build themselves
 
sundog said:
The more you pay the better it works if you drink that Coolaid.
Click to expand...

I don’t think that’s entirely accurate. For me, it doesn’t do me any good to do a better job for someone who wants to pay more. A few people talk about a product they are happy with, EVERYONE likes to talk about a product they aren’t happy with.
 
rjcruiser44 said:
Is there a difference in performance from using the aluminum basket to the steel?
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No.

For higher HP applications (limited modifieds, opens, jackshaft, etc. I’ll go with a steel basket. For any stock engine application, aluminum is fine.

I prefer aftermarket baskets that are identical to Bully, except they don’t have steel dowel pins in the disc slots. This was a good idea in theory on Bully’s part, but the aluminum material around that steel dowel is so thin, that it chews threw the aluminum a lot quicker and you are right down to the dowel pin.
 
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