One Fast Kat
Member
How many Rpms before it fails.
It sure wouldn't hurt.Thanks Steve. I plan on running a breather bypass . Do I still drill oil return holes? This going to be a modified animal. Running a tilly, alcohol.
It’s a good idea, it helps to keep more oil in the crankcase where it needs to be.Thanks Steve. I plan on running a breather bypass . Do I still drill oil return holes? This going to be a modified animal. Running a tilly, alcohol.
So on the clone forum i saw some guys drilling the hole in the rod bigger. Does anyone suggest or do that to the arc or wf rod? I didnt measure just visual and it looked like the clone rod hole was almost double in areaWe have run them up to 9700 rpm with no problems. The failure mode is rod bore seizing to crank journal, not rod fracture. Make sure your using a good quality oil and drill the oil return hole between the lifters out to at least .312 diameter to help keeping the oil in the bottom end. Rod seizing starts to become a problem above 8300 rpm.
We never drilled that hole out, it might help with pushing more oil in but it might also allow oil to get pushed out easier. Not sure, it always worried me to remove material from rod because of potential rod fractures. The WF billet rod has proved over the years to be a pretty tough rod. Adding a little rod bore hone texture and a micro polished crank journal and use a good quality racing oil ( not thin ) and the rod should last a long time.So on the clone forum i saw some guys drilling the hole in the rod bigger. Does anyone suggest or do that to the arc or wf rod? I didnt measure just visual and it looked like the clone rod hole was almost double in area
Thanks, i noticed the hole on the arc is in a different location than the clone so that might have to do with hole size. i didnt pay attention to where it was on the world formula. Little engines are fun and i'm learning every day.We never drilled that hole out, it might help with pushing more oil in but it might also allow oil to get pushed out easier. Not sure, it always worried me to remove material from rod because of potential rod fractures. The WF billet rod has proved over the years to be a pretty tough rod. Adding a little rod bore hone texture and a micro polished crank journal and use a good quality racing oil ( not thin ) and the rod should last a long time.
Steve