Your oil!

Would anyone be interested in sending me the used oil that you would normally dispose of? I'd much appreciate it and would pay for shipping. As long as it is clean used oil that is not mixed with other brands. I am trying to build a oil recycling setup so I can use good 4cycle oil with out breaking the bank. I have tried it once in the past with good results and have studied some to know the synthetic doesn't really go bad. It just collects water and contamination that if filtered will come back to pretty much normal. Besides I can almost bet most guys change the oil before it is even beginning to get full. Pm me and let's see what we can get started here. Thanks a ton. Don.
 
So you want to clean our used oil, and use it in your kart engine? Seems like a lot of hassle even when the stuff is like $40 a gallon. Or are you planning to use it for something that is less important than keeping a kart engine together?

Don't get me wrong, if you want mine that bad I'll box it up and send it to you. But I'll probably only have a quart or 2 for the rest of the year
 
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Try this . Pour your oil into a clear cylinder . Let it sit for say a week .
All the dirt and moisture / other stuff settles to the botom .
Resulting in near crystal clear oil again .
The trick is getting the good out while leaving the bad in .
 
I applaud your efforts but the shipping is gona' kill you. I'm not 100% convinced the oil doesn't break down somehow. With the price of oil these days I'd give it a try on a practice engine.
 
I'm planning in running it in our yard karts and mini bike ect. I have not figured up logistics and cost but if I had it ordered new from shop. I'd pay shipping plus cost of new oil. That's what I was thinking anyway. Last time I cleaned oil I had a few gallons of used Thor heavy and light mixed together. It was pretty dark colored cause it was flathead oil. After a few passes through the filters and steaming off the moisture it was almost right back to where it began. It's color had returned to orange redish slightly darker than new but I think once I get the filtering process down it will be very close to virgin again. It may be a bust idk but I'm willing to give it a try. Think about it. We run full synthetic in our small engines for literally minutes before changing it with new. I get that it's good insurance and all plus we don't have any filtration on board but what if we did have a filter. How long would that oil be then? Just spit Ballin here fellas.
 
Years ago when Briggs still had their neon green colored oil a buddy would microwave and strain it over and over and it worked out for him. Running alcohol animals and not once did I see any of his blow up.
 
I was thinking of recycling some, but I would put it in my lawnmower or snowblower. Racing engines are to expensive to screw around with the oil. I wouldn't even put a PAG oil in my lawn equipment as it absorbs moisture and has no ability to prevent rust.
 
Does your local track have oil barrels for racers to dump oil out at the track? If so, I would talk to them you could possibly get a 55 gallon drum out of it every month or so. Plus you would be saving track money for disposal.
 
if your crankcase is vented (like all the flatheads) there is no moisture or methanol in your oil. the engine and oil are too hot for either of those two to exist. methanol's ability to mix with PAG oil or changing flathead oil often because it has methanol in it is a wives tale. you need to change your oil because these motors have no oil filter and only hold 12-14 oz of oil
 
if your crankcase is vented (like all the flatheads) there is no moisture or methanol in your oil. the engine and oil are too hot for either of those two to exist. methanol's ability to mix with PAG oil or changing flathead oil often because it has methanol in it is a wives tale. you need to change your oil because these motors have no oil filter and only hold 12-14 oz of oil
Twice this morning I'll take exception....and I usually agree with your posts! LOL

Run a Tillotson carb on a flathead (limited, or other) and you WILL get methanol in the crankcase in very short order.
Idling a flathead with a Tilly on the grid is probably the worst thing you can do for it.
In fact, any carb that is tuned rich for bottom end, especially on a flathead, will put fuel into the oil. From purple plates to stock appearings, .059" jet and up will dump fuel in the cylinder; couple with low tension rings, larger cylinder clearance, and slow timing, you will get fuel past the rings. Then consider that most are mounted on a 15* motor mount...When you shut the engine off, that fuel puddles at the floor of the IN port and gets past the valve guide as well.
As for oil temps, we see very cool oil temps in flatheads, especially compared to big engines.
Changing oil due to fuel contamination is definitely NOT an old wives tale.

Another reason to change the oil often is having no oil filter - to that, I most certainly agree.



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🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
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32 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
if your crankcase is vented (like all the flatheads) there is no moisture or methanol in your oil. the engine and oil are too hot for either of those two to exist. methanol's ability to mix with PAG oil or changing flathead oil often because it has methanol in it is a wives tale. you need to change your oil because these motors have no oil filter and only hold 12-14 oz of oil
Condensation from an engine sitting or not running long enough to heat up enough is a very real thing. Why do you think an oil change in a vehicle is every 3 months or 3000 miles whichever comes first. Plus a vented crankcase would be worse because that let's moisture in even easier
 
my limited only ran a flat mount. also never sat there at grid revving the thing because alcohol would spill from the back at idle. also never left a briggs or any alcohol motor ever sit with the valves open as the fumes from any methanol will corrode the cylinder. how does the alcohol in a flathead pool in a strait manifold then make its way up stream in a port that faces up. i would bet a brigs port could hold quite a bit of fuel in the port before it made its way to the cylinder but my guess would be it would leak into the crankcase through the valve guide. the combustion chamber should be hot enough to evaporate any methanol. How much blow by do your rings have? holy moly. we also always flushed our motors with gas so the diaphragm in and the pop up needle didn't dry out and get stuck. does everyone leave their motor out in the rain? I always brought mine in and kept them clean and dry. took the old girl apart last year after sitting for nearly 20 years covered in dumplin valley clay. inside still looked new. could easily pull it over nothing stuck or corroded.
 
Umm it would be the valve guides that leak. And no sir we don't leave them in the rain. Unless you kept your vented oil in a humidity controlled room than you have moisture in the oil. Ans I'm sure your cylinder does get hot enuff but that is irrelevant to the oil in the crankcase. I think you may be missing the point or simply misunderstanding the concept of a few obvious everyday facts of life. Either way I'm sure Mr.Carlson or someone else could explain things a little better than I can if one is willing to listen and learn.
 
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