04 buller set up

M

mdstephens

New member
ok I got this computer program to help scale my kart . my number shud b 54-55% left, 54-56% rear, and cross 58-61%, with me in kart weighs 376. my numbers are 62% left 60.1% rear and 45.5% cross. now if I add 34lbs to rt ftont it brings my left and rear % to the good side but my cross is still way off . surely I don't need to add all that weight do I , kinda takes me out of the standard weight class of 370 or 390



























5
 
You don't add weight to get your percentages right. Not if your kart is already at the class weight. You move the driver around. You move the seat to the left or to the right or the front and back. Most LTO karts have spindles that you can move up and down. With some you can move the rear axle up and down. You can put different size tires at the 4 corners. You can change the camber, and the caster.
You first need to know what you want your percentages to be. Put those percentages into your software and the software should tell you what weight you need at each corner. Do you have a set of scales?
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
 
Are you sure you have all your scales set right? I would think that 62% left would be very hard to get. If you're running an XL seat, or even a large, you are going to need to notch it out in the front to get it move as far forward as possible. You'll have a heck of a time getting enough weight to the front otherwise without adding more. Front of the seat should be centered, I believe the centerline of the rear of the seat should be about 1" to the right of the brake rotor. Get the seat as low as you legally can, run the lowest VCG style you can find. Tires 1.25" rear stagger, 1.5" front stagger. camber .75l, 3.25R, castor 8l, 12R, .25" lead RR. I believe I started with 40" rear axle width.

(Saving you some time because you're going to run out of cross adjustment anyway) Take the lf (LF only) spindle out, run the top adjuster as far in as you can, then cut the remaining off with a hacksaw. Use washers under the bottom adjuster to fill the space - reassemble with only one washer on the top. You will use the RF as designed to make cross adjustments.

If you've reassembled everything correct, squared it up properly - you should be in the ballpark of 55%left, 44.5% front, and 58 to 61% cross. This set up will work ok. You'll probably want to get a little more front % to make it work better, but it will be really hard without adding weight to the front.
 
im still learning this and I tried to put in what I want on the software but it wudnt let me. ill keep at it with all the input was my first try to scale on my own
 
If you're extremely new to this, there is a great tutorial by Phantom (on youtube) on how to install a seat properly. Where their seat is located isn't quite the same as your Buller, but the premise of installation is the same. I recommend it everyone just getting into the sport. It will save major time and headaches and insure that you install it in a manner that won't bind the chassis.
 
I have an 04 and a 05 Buller. Send me a phone number and I'll text ya info on ur Buller. Sounds to me like ur cross adjustment on LR is way off. Loosen LR cassette bolts and move axle all the way down in hanger. Move LF spindle all the UP. Move RF spindle all the way DOWN. Cross should shoot sky high now. Now you should be able to hit target cross number with LR by moving axle UP in bearing hanger. Make sure seat is as far forward as possible (very important). This should get you in right direction.
 
Mars0 said:
Are you sure you have all your scales set right? I would think that 62% left would be very hard to get. If you're running an XL seat, or even a large, you are going to need to notch it out in the front to get it move as far forward as possible. You'll have a heck of a time getting enough weight to the front otherwise without adding more. Front of the seat should be centered, I believe the centerline of the rear of the seat should be about 1" to the right of the brake rotor. Get the seat as low as you legally can, run the lowest VCG style you can find. Tires 1.25" rear stagger, 1.5" front stagger. camber .75l, 3.25R, castor 8l, 12R, .25" lead RR. I believe I started with 40" rear axle width.

(Saving you some time because you're going to run out of cross adjustment anyway) Take the lf (LF only) spindle out, run the top adjuster as far in as you can, then cut the remaining off with a hacksaw. Use washers under the bottom adjuster to fill the space - reassemble with only one washer on the top. You will use the RF as designed to make cross adjustments.

If you've reassembled everything correct, squared it up properly - you should be in the ballpark of 55%left, 44.5% front, and 58 to 61% cross. This set up will work ok. You'll probably want to get a little more front % to make it work better, but it will be really hard without adding weight to the front.
Click to expand...

This fellow is correct also!!
 
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