+.637 stroker animal,

im waiting for someone that has a 2.992 billet block, the rest of the parts are pretty much here, I have a new 2.837 Lunati billet crank to go in it.i just need the block to do some measuring..believe it will work , without much work.
 
hey flattop1...I also have tons of flat head stuff, from heads to custom cams to bout whatever ya need, if ya ever need anything
 
Greg, you have no idea of what you are letting yourself in for.
It can be done. I recently did one of these with the ARC +.200 stroker billet crank. This is far from a "plug and play" piece of work.
The block must be the 5/8" extended deck block.
If you are an excellent heli-arc welder, a decent machinist and able to improvise without asking quetions on the forum, you can do it.
There is also the question of rod length to solve.
No rod was available for the .200 stroker, and all the Raptor rods have the dipper pointed straight down from the cap. This cannot be used.
I hate doing it, because it is soooo time consuming, and tedious, but I made the rod myself.....and made the rods for2 others of the JR billet model 15 blocks. (It is actually a model 15, not an Animal block)
I doubt you will find a used one somewhere that anyone would want to part with. There have been only about 20 of these ever produced and sold.
I myself have purchased and built five of them.
 
Grasshopper said:
im waiting for someone that has a 2.992 billet block, the rest of the parts are pretty much here, I have a new 2.837 Lunati billet crank to go in it.i just need the block to do some measuring..believe it will work , without much work.
Click to expand...
The last 3 words of your posting are terribly incorrect.

You want the JR billet block to do "measuring"? Explain please.
Oh, and I presume you know that the block is designed for the Animal/WF crankshaft which has the 1.1" crankpin.
Your Lunati crankshaft is designed for the Raptor engines, with the 1" crank pin.
You will need the special crank gear, designed to use the Raptor style crank to the Animal cam.
 
Grasshopper
If you want to start out small so you can rebuild it many times you could start with a Wiseco 2.563 piston. (flat head size)
Being a little more serious though, There are 17 different bore sizes between 2.752 and 3.1 inches available from JE. There is also about the same number available from JE. There are several sizes of JE pistons in between the Wiseco sizes.
In my opinion it is much easier to use a 2.437 stroke that the block was designed to accept with out any hassles and use a 3.012" bore.
If you feel you must go with more stroke then i wouldn't add any more than another .200"
The reason i like the 3.012 bore is because there are rings available for that exact bore size. If you choose a smaller bore you have to do a lot of filing on the 3.012 ring set to get them to fit. You can file the end gaps to get them to fit but you increase the ring tension dramatically as you stuff them in to smaller and smaller cylinders. In my opinion that's not a good thing.
Not only do you have excessive ring tension but you also loose concentricity of the big ring to the smaller bore.
I try to keep the JR blocks in stock so if you decide you want 3.012" just call me back and it's on the way to you.
 
thanks for all the input PD and Jimbo, ive been looking and will prolly have to use a flat top rod or cut the dipper off , im not sure yet. that's why I said I need the block to mock up some different rods and so forth and "roll it through" see what kinda clearances and all I have. The machining part isn't a problem, we've already put a flat top raptor crank in a predator block. lol
Thanks again guys, I guess we try to do a little outta the plug and play parts, anyone can make a .200 stroker , I want to try a .400 Greg
 
I don't get it.
Just a few more questions and then i'll give up.
What's so important about going to such a big stroke?
Why do you want to weld an extension in the front of the block, grind away a large amount of the cam, crank and rod, use a rod made for a flat head and ultimately build something that will most likely come apart in a short time.
 
well Jim ,I guess the reason being is , the open classes we run around here are anything from 450r shifter karts to 2 strokers, to big twins etc. my reasoning is yea they run fast, and they are sloppy on the race track because of the weight and getting the kart set up which is impossible with a big heavy motor. so I want a big hp single ohv motor that allows me to setup my kart the way it was intended to run and be competitive with these guys throwing big motors on that I cant catch down a straightway, I can gain on them in the corners cause they are sloppy and all over the place but cant outrun there hp on the straights, that's my reason . just throwing an example out ,,if they have a ,,"who cares" lets say 35 hp big heavy motor, and I have a 35 hp animal, i'll have more useable hp than they will, because my kart will be setup better than theres with them having to deal with all the weight... just saying
 
I understand the part about the 450's but putting a .637 stroke in a billet block is just plain crazy.
However, i have never done it. I don't even think it's possible.
You may be able to get it to fit but the integrity of the parts will be compromised to the extent that i don't think it will last.
Back off on the stroke and increase the bore and you will be more successful.
 
Sounds like a very costly endeavor and a lot of high $ parts wasted trying to keep up with the 450's . It can be done I'm sure but at a high cost and a Very Short Life , and the 450's will still be there . The Billet Animal with Billet Head , and 3rd and 4th Bearing support will also weigh in about 20 lbs. more that a stoke Animal. Good luck and keep everyone up to date on your next project .
 
You don't need the block to do that. I have those blocks and cranks.
Unless you are prepared to basically re-manufacture the block, you can forget it. None of the dippers, pointing straight down from the cap, will clear the back wall of the block.....not even close.
I'd pay close attention to what Jimbo and I have told you.
You need to get yourself a 305 block, and go to town on that. Trying to put 10 lbs of manure into a 5 lb container doesn't work, and has never worked.
Put the ARC billet 5hp crank in, and that motor will fly, without having to butcher it. Always use the 5/8" raised deck block.
Good luck.
I cannot think of a thing more, and probably neither does Jimbo, to tell you about what you may think is an "easy" proposition. It isn't.
 
I will add one more comment. In order to get the crank counterweight to clear the bore, you will have to grind so much away from the bottom of
the bore, where it comes thru to the bottom half of the block, that there will be almost no material left, holding the bore (cylinder) to the block.

It would be "easier" to build a block than to butcher the JR Billet. The 305 however will do the job, very nicely.
Your crank and all the rest will fit right in there, with the 3+" bore, and you'll have something to be proud of, long lived, and FAST.
 
Last time I called Jr race car they said they stopped making the Billet Big Block. Using the Billet small block makes a stout engine. Buy a 1" Extended deck block with a 2.637 stroke and either 2.992 or 3.012 bore and hold on. If you want more cc, you can get upwards of 380 cc just increasing the bore size.
 
Ludlow13 said:
Last time I called Jr race car they said they stopped making the Billet Big Block. Using the Billet small block makes a stout engine. Buy a 1" Extended deck block with a 2.637 stroke and either 2.992 or 3.012 bore and hold on. If you want more cc, you can get upwards of 380 cc just increasing the bore size.
Click to expand...
This information has some error. You cannot use that stroker without LOTS of effort.

I believe that JR will build you their version of the big block. It has been changed and improved to where they no longer really call it
the billet 305, or 342.
Jimbo knows their offerings I think, as well as I do.
Your Lunati crank will fit fine.

Incidentally I DO have a brandy new 305, the latest version used for their University Briggs racing competition.
I have, still new in the box, ARC billet rod for this engine.
Cost.....engine and rod......$290.
 
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