adjusting bulley clutch stall speed for adult clone super heavy sumo class

F

fasteddie14

Member
At present time the clutch is set at 4000 rpms and ,225 spring height with red spring and with bolt and nut on out side hole if needed to lower all the above adjustment what would be a better setting and set up we have been getting beat on starts
 
fasteddie14 said:
At present time the clutch is set at 4000 rpms and ,225 spring height with red spring and with bolt and nut on out side hole if needed to lower all the above adjustment what would be a better setting and set up we have been getting beat on starts
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Might not be the clutch could be the engines getting tired or if fresh it's a turd
 
fasteddie14 said:
At present time the clutch is set at 4000 rpms and ,225 spring height with red spring and with bolt and nut on out side hole if needed to lower all the above adjustment what would be a better setting and set up we have been getting beat on starts
Click to expand...
Is 4000 peak torque for your engine?
Generally, we're slightly lower on the requests we get for clone clutches. 3800-ish which is red springs, one bolt in each lever, and .240" on the spring height.
As flat as the torque curve is on a clone, I kinda doubt the engagement rpm is your problem. Could be gearing, could be clutch driver choice, could be clutch lock-up, hard to tell. If the engine is not the problem, then I'd look at gearing and having the clutch freshened to make sure it's not out of spec.


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nothing matters but stall speed of clutch set to torque peak. forget gear, weight class, color of kart, track width or dirt type. torque peak on clone is around 3800. Tod millers are closer to 4000. you will need to verify torque peak on dyno and stall speed with your tach. after that is set gear for HP peak.
higher stall speed is NOT better.
 
J'-remy said:
nothing matters but stall speed of clutch set to torque peak. forget gear, weight class, color of kart, track width or dirt type. torque peak on clone is around 3800. Tod millers are closer to 4000. you will need to verify torque peak on dyno and stall speed with your tach. after that is set gear for HP peak.
higher stall speed is NOT better.
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Can't say forget gear as you will not run the same gear in clone med vs sumo. Especially when you see in op original post he has it set at 4000 already.
 
Colt sr said:
Can't say forget gear as you will not run the same gear in clone med vs sumo. Especially when you see in op original post he has it set at 4000 already.
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His point is 1) the clutch doesn't care what gear is on it for it to engage and 2) the engine may be better suited for a lower engagement vs a higher engagement. Higher engagement doesn't necessarily equal better starts.

@fasteddie14 is there any chance you're overheating the clutch during the parade laps and causing it to slip?
 
I am waiting for my engine builder to getting back with me for the peak torque will change the stall speed of the clutch and gear on clutch
 
fasteddie14 said:
I am waiting for my engine builder to getting back with me for the peak torque will change the stall speed of the clutch and gear on clutch
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Even if he comes back with 3800 or even 4200, I don't think you're going to see/feel a difference on your starts.
Again, the torque is very flat and forgiving. Not saying that you shouldn't set your clutch at peak torque - that's certainly where it needs to be, but 200 rpm one way or the other on these engine is not going to make a world of difference for you.
 
CarlsonMotorsports said:
Even if he comes back with 3800 or even 4200, I don't think you're going to see/feel a difference on your starts.
Again, the torque is very flat and forgiving. Not saying that you shouldn't set your clutch at peak torque - that's certainly where it needs to be, but 200 rpm one way or the other on these engine is not going to make a world of difference for you.
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if getting it in the ballpark was sufficient, i don't think you'd have all these clutch specialists. IMO and slipping is wear and heat if its set too high
 
One thing I do know . Putting new disc's in and sanding the plates .
does not provide the same grip a good fresh grind does .
Losing 3-4 spots at the flag sucks .
A clutch thats well used will never preform the same as a top notch fresh clutch . no matter how much you adjust it .
My first had experience .
 
J'-remy said:
if getting it in the ballpark was sufficient, i don't think you'd have all these clutch specialists. IMO and slipping is wear and heat if its set too high
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If you look at post #7 Brian addresses that he doubts the clutch engagement rpm is the source of his problem and also suggests that the clutch may need to be freshened. But with every post on clutches we always ask the same questions about size of track, gear, ect. Could his clutch need serviced possibly but without all the facts we are looking for any way to help someone who is having issues. When I see a post when it says they are getting beat on the starts first few things that run through my head is what driver,what rear gear, what size is the track, and what weight are you running. With that said his clutch might not be set up for his weight causing what I call a sluggish start or could be wrong choice of gearing for the class.
 
1. how do you set up a clutch
2 how do you set a clutch for weight class?
and 3 how is it different????????
 
I listed all the things that you said that was needed already in a post from yesterday, I know that it is different for a heavier weight class just some good ideas what to changed.
 
J'-remy said:
if getting it in the ballpark was sufficient, i don't think you'd have all these clutch specialists. IMO and slipping is wear and heat if its set too high
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How do you think all these clutch specialists set their engagement, and how accurate is it? Within 200 rpm?
I agree with you, just asking.
 
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