All My Newbie Questions in One Post

S

StrokeTech92

New member
Just a little heads up, I have no experiance in karts, Ive always wanted to get started, but recently decided to make the jump. I'm planning to run the Predator class at 3D RaceWay in Haskell, OK.

This evening(9/6/14) I will be purchasing a roller in missouri. The kart I am purchasing is a 2007 Millineum Tempest V2, I was told everything will be included with the kart, minus engine. I will be purchasing a new Harbor Freight Predator 212, and I plan to go from there.

The rules are simple for the class they run, it basically states Stock air filter, 3/4 O.D. exhaust, with RLV muffler. No modification of flywheel or timing key is allowed, and you are allowed to run any "shoe type dry clutch". You are allowed to use a floor mounted fuel tank with an auxillary fuel pump.

Question 1.
I have tried searching but have found very little info on clutches. Is there a specific clutch that most of the predator class racers use? Where can I find info on the shaft size of a predator engine so I know what bore clutch to order? Does anyone have a suggestion of the clutch I should run?

Question 2.
I'm planning on running this exhaust. It states it has a O.D. of .750, and uses a B-91 RLV muffler, I'm just wanting to clarify with someone more experianced that this exhaust will be legal for my class.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Go-Kart-AKR...pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item51c2d9671a&vxp=mtr

Question 3.
Will there be a benefit of running a floor mounted fuel tank for my application? I realize the obvious that there will be minor benefit due to lowering the COG of the kart, But am I going to notice a difference power wise? I guess what I'm asking is, for someone that has never raced before is it going to be worth the cost and time to add the floor tank, auxillary pump, and lines. Or should I just run with the engine mounted fuel tank till I get the driving parts figured out?

Question 4.
The track I will be running is a 1/8 mile, dirt/clay mix, medium bank track. What should I be looking at as far as driver/sprocket size?

I'm open to and appriciate all suggestions, Also if anyone has used parts that I need, please let me know, I'm not opossed to buying used.

Thank you for any and all help,
Shaun.
 
Hillard Flame clutch will probally be your best cheap clutch....and I would run the floor tank and pump just because I would be worried about the tank breaking off the motor. Get a JC Specialty book...they have just about everything you will need.
 
Our Predator class is more restricted than yours, but I'll try to help. We have to keep the governor intact and keep the stock muffler.

1. We aren't limited on clutch selection so we've been using disc clutches. But I'd expect any shoe clutch that works on a clone should be okay. The bore is the same as the flathead's, 3/4" I think. Usually when you buy a new clutch they'll provide your choice of driver gear. Ask racers at your track or the parts man what they're using in this class... it's probably around 17 teeth. Try to get the correct gear because it will effect a number of other aspects of your kart too (such as rear gear selections and some chassis and tire setup decisions).

2. The best person to ask about exhaust pipe legality (as well as any other engine modification) is your track's tech man. He or the promoter may also have a specific set of rules - if so get a copy and comply.

3. We have run both the stock fuel tank and a remote (floor mounted) tank with fuel pump. Several others in the class have also tried both. Nobody seems to notice a difference... but as I said we are more restricted than you are. I'd be inclined to start with the stock tank, and maybe experiment with a floor tank later if I thought I was having fueling problems. The stock tank is not vented very well, so we drill a small hole or two in its cap (if that is legal at your track). However if you use the floor tank and a top plate like on a clone it will be easier to hook up the throttle (you'll have to flatten out the bends in a clone's top plate somewhat in order to get it to fit on a Predator).

4. There are a lot of variables that effect your best gear choices. Without seeing your track or knowing your total weight, and having to run a working governor, all I can tell you is that our track sounds similar and we run 19 / 63 at 400 pounds. Some of our other guys are running bigger clutch gears and smaller rear gears, but they are also lighter than us (our minimum class weight is 365 pounds / 375 pounds if running the Hemi version engine). As said earlier, ask what others are using. Also expect to want to change rear gears as the track changes... in general you can take off a couple of rear teeth for the Feature. But again, that depends on a lot of things I don't know about your situation so please take that advice with a grain of salt...

I've found that you can use a clone motor's chain guard / exhaust shield on a Predator, but you have to modify it by drilling a new mounting hole (the one towards the front of the kart) and cutting away the metal that extends below your new mounting hole (leaving enough for strength, of course). The new hole is to line up with the different mounting holes on the Predator's side cover, and your clutch and chain can rub on that extra metal. In fact, using a large clutch gear can make clearance pretty tight.

People are disconnecting the Predator's stock oil sensor. While racing it can get triggered and stall your engine.

I'm still experimenting, but I suspect that the Predator suffers similar valve spring woes as clones do. I also expect the side cover loosening problems too, but haven't experienced them so far (might be due to lower r.p.m. courtesy of the governor).

There are four versions of the Predator that I am aware of so far. Almost everybody around me races the Hemi version... I've run that and also the "standard" version and not noticed any real difference, but others have been racing Predators longer so I defer to them. I forget the part number for the Hemi version but it's in the Predator motor forum on this website. You can tell the Hemi apart from the "standard" version at a glance by looking at the valve cover - the "standard" has a shiny sheet metal cover similar to most clones, while the Hemi has a more rectangular cover with a dull dark and coarse finish.
 
The tank is a safety issue move it to the floor it also makes it so much easier to hook up a throttle. I like stinger clutches because they have wider shoe and use bully drivers so you can get them very resonable. Gear wise you are going to have to ask around 95% of tracks say they are 1/8th mile bit very rarely will they take the same gears. Everybody measures their track in a different spot and the length of the straights radius of the corners and banking all play a part in gearing
 
Unless its momentum 1/8 mile with good bite, i doubt you are going to be on a 17 driver. the 1/8 mile tracks around here use a 14 or 15 driver, and are medium bite tracks with banking, some have wider turns and some tighter, i use the 14 on tight turn tracks and the 15 on wider turn tracks, never have been on anything over the 15 driver on 1/8 mile tracks and win consistently every weekend. Make sure the side cover bolts on your engine are torqued properly when you get it, and recheck it after you run it a couple times, they should be torqued to 17ft lbs or 200-220 in/lbs.
 
Weddle Racing said:
Unless its momentum 1/8 mile with good bite, i doubt you are going to be on a 17 driver. the 1/8 mile tracks around here use a 14 or 15 driver, and are medium bite tracks with banking, some have wider turns and some tighter, i use the 14 on tight turn tracks and the 15 on wider turn tracks, never have been on anything over the 15 driver on 1/8 mile tracks and win consistently every weekend. Make sure the side cover bolts on your engine are torqued properly when you get it, and recheck it after you run it a couple times, they should be torqued to 17ft lbs or 200-220 in/lbs.
Click to expand...

Driver does depend upon the available bite, and I'm racing in NC and VA so our bite is different than in KY. I started with a 16 tooth driver and had to use smaller rear gears to avoid hitting the rev limit of the governor. We have enough bite that we can take more advantage of a larger driver, and that also moves my rear gear selection into the 60s (which gives me more potential choices above and below that).

Ultimately you'll have to experiment to find which gears work best for your track(s).
 
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