Animal motor break in proceedure and head temp

R

Rob25Racing

Member
Just built my first animal motor (methanol). What is the proper way to break motor in. Also once that's done what is the / good head temperature for this motor to run at. Using Mychron 3 with sensor under spark plug. Any input would be appreciated thanks using Amsoil synthetic made for this motor.
 
In my opinion the break in procedure is very important.
With out a dyno or break in machine i would suggest putting the motor on the kart and after a very brief start up period, just to make sure nothing falls off, knocks or comes flying out i would get it on the track and run it at just above clutch lock up for 15 minutes. Come off the track and re-adjust the valves change the oil and do it again. In a perfect world you would keep doing this until the oil comes out clean.
Ideally you would use a gas carb for the break in procedure and change to the methanol carb once you are satisfied it's broke in.
If you have a clutch with a high engagement rpm i would suggest lowering it to around 3500 rpms for the break in process.
 
Break it in like its a well used engine. Get a little heat in it and run it. Cylinder pressure seats rings.
 
You are going to get a lot of opinions on this because there is no set in stone rule. I like to keep my head temp under 400 degrees, but I have seen instances where we hit 450. I don't like to see it that high, but I don't get majorly concerned as long as it doesn't stay there for a length of time. I also know guys that tell their customers not to go over 380..... so there is a wide range there.

Break-in is the same way. Some guys like to idle their engines or do long slow break-ins. I'm on the other side of the fence. I once believed in the long slow break-ins, until I tried it the other way. Not saying either way is right or wrong. If it's built right, you fire it up and bring it up to 300 degrees or so and hammer down on it. The harder the better. I have not seen any adverse affects doing this and it takes a LOT less time. I have however seen adverse affects to the idle method IF the cylinder bore finish is very smooth. You will never get the top ring seated in that instance "IN MY OPINION".
 
If starting on methanol for break in, don't let it idle on stand, this just washes the cylinder of any oil. And loads crankcase with fuel. Run engine with load, not foot or hand on brake, hard on the clutch. Good luck.
 
Consistent temps over 400 will warp the head but normally that isn't an issue with the LO 206.
There is no advantage to running this engine that hot.
The rules are such that it's hard to do anything to affect the engine temp.
Ambient temp is the biggest influence on engine temp. Driver size (weight) is another. How much grip you have and how long the kart is locked down to the track in the corners.
Asphalt, sticky tires, high ambient temp, heavy drivers and tight kart will equal high engine temps as opposed to the opposite conditions.
Keep in mind that you are not allowed to tape up the blower housing, change jets, change timing etc.
 
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