Box Stock

Bearing corrosion.

flattop1

flattop1

Dawg 89
Today
I went too roll over an engine , it was stuck had to pop it lose.
Pulled valve cover no rust , been keeping it lubricated and turning it .
The fly Wheel bearing feels pretty stiff .

Any one have any corrosion/rust issues after long term storage ?
Odd because the other engine all turn over.
 
It's still connected to my water brake and I'm thinking it's some type of electrolysis.
As the inside of the valve cover had a powdery substance on it that wiped clean .
 
Right , I would have expected the valve chamber to be rusty though .
bore seems fine also ,it just rolls like the ball bearing is bad , I'm 100 %sure that's it .
I don't need another engine in a box ; but suppose ill disassemble it anyway .
Doc tony too the Rescue
:giggle:
 
As too the oil I have used it for quite a while and none of the other engines have this problem .
all get the same treatment ride hard and put away wet .
 
flattop1 said:
Right , I would have expected the valve chamber to be rusty though .
bore seems fine also ,it just rolls like the ball bearing is bad , I'm 100 %sure that's it .
I don't need another engine in a box ; but suppose ill disassemble it anyway .
Doc tony too the Rescue
:giggle:
Click to expand...
Yah mean everyone doesn't have a shelf full of "projects"?

lol
 
5.44 second to pull side cover .
Side cover bearing wont roll and it's nice and clean in there with no rust .
I must have drained the oil which is unusual for me .
What was left was not very slippery , it was clean though
.this one is it and will not spin . The second one was laying on the floor and spins fine .
 

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In reflection , I may have flushed this engine with a solvent .
As a maintenance procedure , the crankcase was extremely clean .
That would also explained why the bearings have no residual lubricant on them .
Or any of the other internal components.
So in hind sight do not flush your engine then put it up with out running some oil around in there .
 
Where are you using the roller bearing where is the outer cup or race. Do you have a number for that bearing?
 
No one has had any problem with the main ball bearing , freezing , corroding or just plain going bad .
My newest engine has sat for an equal time and rolls just fine .
 
Another 15 minutes to pull flywheel and remove crank . Pretty clean inside .
The other bearing won't spin either.
After conferring with an expert , it has a miniscule amount of surface rust on the race .
The bearing shop said it was a precision bearing .
With a light preload . So no clearance for rust .
 

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The differnce between a master builder and everyone else is the amount of debris you leave in the engine !
Start cleaning components at 7:45 look for gaskets and tools during reassembly wahla done at 10:30 . 2 new bearings all cleaned up .
No if I had a timing tool ? wouldn't have had to stop , cause to tuckered for the degree wheel .
 
I am having a hard time following the story line, why did you show the picture of the heavily coroded bearing that was not from this engine? I amnot sure who the expert was but those single row ball bearing type are not preloaded they are always manufactured with radial tolerance. If your bearing does not turn it is either damaged or contaminated with dirt. If you have enough moisture to affect the high quality steel of a bearing, the cam and cylinder must look like crap. Why not take the head off and have the piston out of the cylinder before taking crank out it sure makes it easier.
 
The tapered bearing was a simple reference picture , bad choice .
The bearing preload came through bearing prefix and suffix meanings . Several sources aggreed that the cx/cl designation had a light preload.
Im going too cut it in half and inspect it further. As it really does not look that bad that they should not turn though I haven't lubricated them and they are dry as a bone.
Reason I did it mostly , some one mentioned it and I wanted to see if it could be done that way .
honestly pretty easy .
the cylinder and bore look fine .Almost 100 % sure i used acetone to flush it as the seals were soft as all get out.

Time line is bought in 2012 raced one race , then a part season .
engine rode around in trailer for a spare 2 years , then layed around in garage till I put it on the water brake mount which is steel.
roughly 23 minutes too disassemble and confirm suspicion's.
two hrs 45 minutes to clean , dig up gaskets , install bearings and reassemble .
All while working under a cotton wood tree with engine on a plastic tote covered in cardboard .
Conclusion its all together: I'm confident its fine , its not in a box disassembled (sure Death)
It May or may not ever get used.
On top of that Ya'll shoot down my electosis theory.:cool::cool:
 
2 tips: always were some type of eye protection when spraying brake/carb cleaner around . it will eventually ricochet off something directly into your face .
Use your shop vac with the crevice tool or a hose tapped to the end , too suck out the last few bits of debris that won't wash out and appear out of nowhere.
 
Went too the kart shop picked up some new seals .
Finished up the flywheel , add fuel and oil runs like a top .
 

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