Ok guys this might be a dumb question. But can I do all the same upgrades on a 6.5hp CPE engine as I can a predator,clone, or Honda. And I’m mainly upgrading the carb and the air intake and jetting. Can I use the same jets as these other motors and what carb is recommended. Any help to helping me upgrade my first engine would be high you appreciated
Beginner needing general knowledge
- Thread starter Dalton46
- Start date
Sanco Motorsports
Member
I’m guessing a Champion Power Equipment 196cc
combative hodaka
Member
All clone parts interchange with a Champion engine the only difference being the champion uses shaft mounted rocker arms ( two variations ) which are not AKRA legal assuming this is a 196 we are talking about.
A SIMPLE PLAN
Member
read somewhere they did a HP/torque test on 196/212 motor... took off/added things... put it on the dyno (cant find the test... it is on here... somewhere?) and of all the things they did... removing the VERY RESTRICTIVE STOCK MUFFLER made the most HP???? like 1.2 HP? hard to believe really... to me CM .265" cam $45, 22/26# springs (22# for ~6500RPM's...shd be more than enuf as it just runs out of air thru the stock valves at ~6300 RPM and the stock flywheel/rod will give up before that anyway). some have said the stock rod will hold up to ~6800 RPM's???? if drill out the oiling hole on the stock rod, cut the oil dipper off 3/8" so it doesnt hit the bottom of the motor when the crank flexes SCREAMING the motor ~6000R's.
FRESH OIL every race day (karting). break in motor 3 hours on test stand, then oil change? change oil in the first 45 mins after 3-15 min, heat/cool/shut off/let it cool cycles. STABIL Fuel stabilizer in ALL TANKS OF GAS, shut off gas valve and let carb run out of gas at end of days run so the gas doesnt go bad in the carb or if the fuel needle/seat leak it does not leak gas into the oil and thin the oil. gasoline is NOT a lubricant and will ruin a motor quickly.
i like the u tube vid of projectfarm where he takes 2 NEW IN BOX (NIB) PREDATORS, breaks them in properly for 4 hours, then ads STP oil treatment and LUCAS OIL stabilizer for a while... then drains all the oil out and runs them til they blow. kinda cruel to motors/destructive testing, but... interesting to watch/see results in how long they last. guy is not lazy. just think if motors had oil changed PROPERLY Every ~15-25 hours run time... they wud last forever. and air cleaner... with spray air cleaner foam spray/ WD 40 to get the silt in the air.
Billet rod $65, PVL flywheel $70 if going to SEND IT @ over 5400 R's DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE FLYWHEEL NUT!!!! IT WILL CRACK THE FLYWHEEL and IT WILL COME APART AND GRENADE ON YOU!!! even at low RPM's 55 FT/LBS is plenty. USE TORQUE WRENCH!!!!!! oil the threads and under the nut so dont get false torque readings. paint line across the nut /flywheel/fan/shaft so can tell at a glance if the nut has loosened any... paint the threads sticking out of the flywheel nut? so it will be harder for the flywheel nut to come off. port the heads with $18 fleabay grinder and lots of 80 grit sanding drums in 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" with abt 5 mandrels to hold the sanding drums as sometimes they get torn up while being used and need to throw them out. SAFETY GLASSES/dust mask outside in the breeze to carry silicone dust away from lungs as iron lungs are cumbersome as are seeing eye dogs.
the port wont flow any bigger than the valve seat opening, minus the valve stem x best volumetric flow volume...~85%? ( so... ~24mm-5mm x .85 = ~17mm) . the stock carb is .556" bore. it can be opened up (by hand) with 17mm bit but will get into the idle jet pocket (side) and the needle/seat pocket (bottom). they can be epoxied, but that is messy and not pretty. carbs are $12 on fleabay if u make mistake. the 1/2" grinding drum will open up the carbs throat just abt right. the CM .265" cam comes in 2 flavors: HEMI and NON Hemi. the difference is the ends that go in the block. one is like ~.545 and the other is ... ~.555? (WHY????) the one u have is... one or the other. make sure that the lobes on the cam dont hit the bottom of the cyl or the throws on the crankshaft or the connecting rod. they shouldnt... on the stock connecting rod on low lift cam like that one, wud have a problem when get into the higher lift cams of ~.3" lift+.
BILLET ROD?
little point in putting all that time/$ into a motor and have it ruined by stock conn. rod that breaks and RUINS THE ENGINE n the $ parts put into the motor; cars n cameras on u tube. really... if going to put all that work into a motor... get a PREDATOR and start to build that one. use the one u have, build the predator... try to keep the $ in the PREDATOR <$250 as can get a 16 HP motor for $270? so... the cost v. benefit thing comes into play pretty quickly. the 16 HP motor has more TORQUE OFF IDLE but is rev limited by coil/flywheel/rod to <4000 and is more expensive x2..x3$ to hot rod. REAL Ez to put ... $250+ ... $300 into a $100 engine and not even count the little things. YMMV (your mileage may vary)
FRESH OIL every race day (karting). break in motor 3 hours on test stand, then oil change? change oil in the first 45 mins after 3-15 min, heat/cool/shut off/let it cool cycles. STABIL Fuel stabilizer in ALL TANKS OF GAS, shut off gas valve and let carb run out of gas at end of days run so the gas doesnt go bad in the carb or if the fuel needle/seat leak it does not leak gas into the oil and thin the oil. gasoline is NOT a lubricant and will ruin a motor quickly.
i like the u tube vid of projectfarm where he takes 2 NEW IN BOX (NIB) PREDATORS, breaks them in properly for 4 hours, then ads STP oil treatment and LUCAS OIL stabilizer for a while... then drains all the oil out and runs them til they blow. kinda cruel to motors/destructive testing, but... interesting to watch/see results in how long they last. guy is not lazy. just think if motors had oil changed PROPERLY Every ~15-25 hours run time... they wud last forever. and air cleaner... with spray air cleaner foam spray/ WD 40 to get the silt in the air.
Billet rod $65, PVL flywheel $70 if going to SEND IT @ over 5400 R's DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE FLYWHEEL NUT!!!! IT WILL CRACK THE FLYWHEEL and IT WILL COME APART AND GRENADE ON YOU!!! even at low RPM's 55 FT/LBS is plenty. USE TORQUE WRENCH!!!!!! oil the threads and under the nut so dont get false torque readings. paint line across the nut /flywheel/fan/shaft so can tell at a glance if the nut has loosened any... paint the threads sticking out of the flywheel nut? so it will be harder for the flywheel nut to come off. port the heads with $18 fleabay grinder and lots of 80 grit sanding drums in 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" with abt 5 mandrels to hold the sanding drums as sometimes they get torn up while being used and need to throw them out. SAFETY GLASSES/dust mask outside in the breeze to carry silicone dust away from lungs as iron lungs are cumbersome as are seeing eye dogs.
the port wont flow any bigger than the valve seat opening, minus the valve stem x best volumetric flow volume...~85%? ( so... ~24mm-5mm x .85 = ~17mm) . the stock carb is .556" bore. it can be opened up (by hand) with 17mm bit but will get into the idle jet pocket (side) and the needle/seat pocket (bottom). they can be epoxied, but that is messy and not pretty. carbs are $12 on fleabay if u make mistake. the 1/2" grinding drum will open up the carbs throat just abt right. the CM .265" cam comes in 2 flavors: HEMI and NON Hemi. the difference is the ends that go in the block. one is like ~.545 and the other is ... ~.555? (WHY????) the one u have is... one or the other. make sure that the lobes on the cam dont hit the bottom of the cyl or the throws on the crankshaft or the connecting rod. they shouldnt... on the stock connecting rod on low lift cam like that one, wud have a problem when get into the higher lift cams of ~.3" lift+.
BILLET ROD?
little point in putting all that time/$ into a motor and have it ruined by stock conn. rod that breaks and RUINS THE ENGINE n the $ parts put into the motor; cars n cameras on u tube. really... if going to put all that work into a motor... get a PREDATOR and start to build that one. use the one u have, build the predator... try to keep the $ in the PREDATOR <$250 as can get a 16 HP motor for $270? so... the cost v. benefit thing comes into play pretty quickly. the 16 HP motor has more TORQUE OFF IDLE but is rev limited by coil/flywheel/rod to <4000 and is more expensive x2..x3$ to hot rod. REAL Ez to put ... $250+ ... $300 into a $100 engine and not even count the little things. YMMV (your mileage may vary)