Belt Driven 206

I seen the setup at the 4 Cycle Showdown at PKRA on the JR.1 class and really liked it . What I did not like was they ran the driver out board . What I did like no chain lube mess .
 
We have ran belt drive for over 20 years, both on Sprint Tracks, and also Enduro Tracks. If you can run them ( check your rule book ), by all means do. The initial cost is higher no doubt, but I have pulleys ( the rear "gear" ) that I bought in 1994 and still use them. The clutch pulleys don't wear out either ( aluminum ) and surprisingly, the belts last a long time too. I do not think the belt drive system would be reliable for dirt oval, as the rocks would play havoc with the belts. One thing you have to be aware of ........ you can't run off in the grass, floor it to get back on the track, and with the wheels spinning hit the asphalt. it will tear the teeth off the belt. Other than that, the belt drive system is GREAT. No mess, no chain breaking and messing up paint an maybe your arm. JMO

Dave E.
 
There is no advantage to a belt drive over chain, except in the case of very, very high hp engines. Use of a belt, from engine pulley to jshaft is good.
Using on a stock engine of any genre is a complete waste of time and a focus on what is of no value to reducing lap times.
 
TS Racing has both the drivers and correct belt width for the Road Race karts. We run the 17mm wide, 8mm pitch, be it Goodyear or Gates belts. Pfeifer can cut the belts to any width you like also, and also has in-between belt lengths. I have to disagree with you Paul on the "no advantage" claim. I knew Jim Pfeifer quite well, helped him with the 4 cycle belt drive development in the early '90s. Jim was quite adamant about chain vs belt. Chain, as the speed increases, loses efficiency. Belt, on the other hand, increases in efficiency as the speed increases. This is not me saying this. The only disadvantage I can see to the belt drive is what I explained in the above post. Pulleys last forever, belts will too if they are taken care of. If you for some reason decide you don't like the belt drive (??), you can sell the pulleys for a very good price also. Ever try that with #35 chain sprockets? JMO

Dave E.
 
I can tell you that the chain drive on my dyno is a pain in the _ _ _ !
You have to make sure you keep a well oiled chain on it or it affects the HP.
Likewise on a kart of any HP
It also sure makes a mess the first run each time i switch chains.
Likewise on a Kart.
That's why i'm switching to belt drive.
The issue with the belt drive on a kart is legality and the initial high cost of the components.
 
Jim,I have used a belt drive for my small engine testing for years and it has been flawless.I use automotive dry sump drive components,they are readily available and very reliable.
 
Thanks for the info guys.
I have the belt drive components already as a payback from a friend. I modified an existing clutch drum to accept the belt sprockets.
I have used them already and just need to make sure i get the same results i have been getting over the past decade with the chain drive.
I don't want to have to throw out all the dyno data i have stored in the computer so i haven't made the switch completely yet.
 
Belt driver over chains

Advantage:
Consistency
No mess
Longevity
Reliability

Disadvantage
Legality at tracks
Initial Cost
lack of manufacturers

Anything else that I might be missing?
 
Not sure if this will help anyone, but I'll throw it out there anyway. I do road racing and use belt (I've been using belt drive for 2-stroke enduros for 30 years. Just recently started running Animal and use belt there as well).

I currently use a belt set up from SMC - a belt version of the "red" vortex clutch. It's pricey but works well. Availability is limited.
SMCRedGeneral1_zps74e883bf.jpg

SMCRedGeneral2_zpsd36b3aba.jpg


I have also used a Bully with the belt drum(basket)/driver set-up from TS Racing.
BullyBeltGeneral2_zpse66b993f.jpg


Bruce Peck - Indy
 
Still on chain for the dyno with a Chain Be Gone motor mount
have thought about switching to belt but don't really see a problem with the chain per say.

One of the things I have wondered about but have never researched is how sensitive is the belt to

tension
Belt misalignment from sprocket to sprocket
Everything flexes and it seems with a chain you have can have a bit of error and be fine.

Can you loose .2 tenths or more if your not adjusted right with a belt ??
 
Jimbo said:
Thanks for the info guys.
I have the belt drive components already as a payback from a friend. I modified an existing clutch drum to accept the belt sprockets.
I have used them already and just need to make sure i get the same results i have been getting over the past decade with the chain drive.
I don't want to have to throw out all the dyno data i have stored in the computer so i haven't made the switch completely yet.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you have run the belt but your data is not matching or you have not enough data at this point ??? Kind of confused as you say you run the belt but don't want to toss a decade of data
 
I like belt drives, but the downside is, one chunk of gravel or a big chunk of tire rubber gets into it and it's done.
I could see it being viable for road course races where if you go off your ****** anyway, but no way for dirt or sprint tracks with any gravel kicking around.
 
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