I was able to get my piston up in the hole by using a HF greyhound block from a blue motor, along with a max stroke crank and rod from a BSP motor, and JT123 head from the BSP motor. My piston is about .005-.008 in the hole.
I recieved the 1st one that i've seen and I 'will' say..."It is Not a forging"! However, it Does 'look' better and has larger radii/fillets in the corners of which makes it ez too identify. Will 'this' Help...who know's, it can't hurt! History tell's me that the problems with the 'stock' rods are Not in their 'construction', (rpm ovr 6500 excluded) but...more related too 'lubrication'! Rule change on oil return hole (.250 ref) sud/will help! JMOHas anyone used one yet? Are they any better? please advise, These are the ones from BSP I'm talking about
'Like'There is nothing that indicates to me that that is a forged connecting rod. The actual product description doesn't say "forged." The only mention of "forged" is erroneous placement in the web page title and in the meta tags. The meta tags are invisible to you, but are visible to web crawlers and are used for SEO or search engine optimization. It's a sleazy practice when the meta keywords aren't related to the product (and they frequently aren't). But lets be realistic, you're not going to get a forging for $9 retail anyway, not even a Chinese one.
If someone has one, weigh it on a gram scale and report back please. I bet it's quite a bit heavier than the cast rod.
Forgings are typically stamped while the cast ones are merely molten aluminum drawn into a mold by vacuum, the forging should be far better.
dang california weather is still mid-sixties golf'n-in-tee-shirts conditions! really...i feel 4u! My grandson just 'drove' from newark to watertown, ny last night!!