brakes soft

[foreverfaster]

I'm getting ready to take the whole system off and clean every thing and see where that gets me..
I bought a kart and there was a bunch of air in the line.. so i bled the brakes and still have to push the peddle almost it's full length to get what i would consider good stopping rate or locking up the tires...
how far should i need to push the peddle to get the brakes to work and or lock up the wheels?

 

[OvalTechnologyRacing]

Check to see if pads are worn and need to be adjusted in closer to the rotor

 

[Bumpy]

Bleeding kart brakes is a pain.
You have to open the bleed as the pedal moves at bit and close it before it gets to the bottom.
Keep a close eye on the fluid level.
It takes a bit of practice.

 

[gary10]

If it had air then something needs addressed before just bleeding the brakes. Some systems have a lot of travel unless you screw in the adjusters. After you do this you need to pull the cap off the master cyclinder and pump the brakes to shorten the throw.

 

[gary10]

Also don't bleed them like a car. Get a pressure bleed system. Quick and simple

 

[flattop1]

what fluid are you using. most are dot 5.
pressure bleeding is best.
they are quite hard to do as there is so little fluid displacement.

 

[racir23]

Are the bleeders at the top. had mine at the bottom and the won't bleed that way

 

[W5R]

Some kart shops sell a brake bleed kit and dot 5 fluid. The kit is a small bottle and has a special fitting that screws into the master cylinder, then you crack one of the bleeders open, stick the bottle full of fluid into the top of the fitting in master cyl and squeeze the bottle, wait til you see a steady stream of fluid coming out the bleeder and quickly close the bleeder. Have to be careful not to squeeze too fast. When you get to the point where you can't squeeze any farther, take the bottle off before you let go of the sides so it doesn't push air into the line. Some people like to gravity bleed them instead but that method takes too long for me and I'm impatient. Takes 5 min or less with the bottle kit

 

[foreverfaster]

ok, one man show... this is what i'm going to try once i get the 1/8 inch air line i need... put the line on the end of the fitting (bleeder) the other end in a small bottle with about 1 inch of brake fluid,, so it blows bubbles when i push the air through it.. add fluid to the master cyl... keeping it full.. crack the bleeder and pump brake till i get no more bubbles.. this insures the air is out.. and if for some reason as the peddle comes back to the starting position if it draws in from the bleeder it pulls fluid.. NO MESS this. will do both bleeders... this is how i've always done my race cars... one man show..

question, which way do you guy run your brake lines make a big loop over the rear end or run under it?

 

[Someone ...]

"which way do you guy run your brake lines make a big loop over the rear end or run under it"
Not sure what you mean here... karts just have a solid rear axle (not a rear end) and the brake calipers usually mount in front of it. So the lines go from the master cylinder along the inside or top of the frame until they connect to the calipers. If your layout requires a loop then try to keep the lines away from everything that moves or gets hot!

"how far should i need to push the peddle to get the brakes to work and or lock up the wheels?"
That's a driver's preference, but probably not more than about half travel.
We race on bumpy dirt tracks that can bounce your foot against the brake pedal even though you do not want to brake. So I've never worried about getting all of the air out of the lines - a little bit gives a cushion so bouncing feet don't activate the brakes. But never so much air that you can't feel brake pressure within the first quarter of pedal travel.

 

[C&L_MOTORSPORTS]

I have an extra cap for the master cylinder I drilled a 1/4 hole thru. Get a squeeze bottle like the old mustard bottles with a tip on them from Tractor supply.Fill it with dot 5 fluid, put the cap on, stick the tip in the hole, squeeze lightly then crack the bleeders open till you get solid fluid. Close off and switch caps. walla your done.

 

[sundog]

ok, one man show... This is what i'm going to try once i get the 1/8 inch air line i need... Put the line on the end of the fitting (bleeder) the other end in a small bottle with about 1 inch of brake fluid,, so it blows bubbles when i push the air through it.. Add fluid to the master cyl... Keeping it full.. Crack the bleeder and pump brake till i get no more bubbles.. This insures the air is out.. And if for some reason as the peddle comes back to the starting position if it draws in from the bleeder it pulls fluid..

lol!