Broken Shaft on Bully

T

tx3587

Member
IMG_2188.jpeg
Have any of you guys ever seen this before? Did regular maintenance on it last week and just had hot laps on it when I noticed it. Retainer lock was bent and loose. Has me scratching my head
 
tx3587 said:
View attachment 30256Have any of you guys ever seen this before? Did regular maintenance on it last week and just had hot laps on it when I noticed it. Retainer lock was bent and loose. Has me scratching my head
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Heat cycles...makes the metal brittle and subject to cracks and breaks, and as flat already said, maybe a lack of lube...side note, my clutches get ran 2 shows, then they are thoroughly cleaned and relubed, key thing is to not goop the lube on, just enough to have a thin coat...
 
JPMKarting said:
Its fixable.

PM me if you’d like a quote.
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^ or cut the snout and make it into a clutch for the small tooth inboard drivers.

FWIW, I've also seen this from the clutch not having endplay and being driven up onto the radius of the crank (when running inboard.) The crank radius pushes the end of the drive hub outward and it invariably breaks at the snap ring groove (weakest area.)

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🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
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34 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
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Cut snout off and use the smc/viper style . Spacer snout distance bushing piece.
Even the original drive hub from Buller.
 
I would be sending it in for a replacement of broken parts and freshening. I would venture to say that is only 1 piece of the puzzle that will need replacing. I have seen this before and all the reasons said above could be the culprit.
 
FWIW, I've also seen this from the clutch not having endplay and being driven up onto the radius of the crank (when running inboard.) The crank radius pushes the end of the drive hub outward and it invariably breaks at the snap ring groove (weakest area.)



Brian is spot on !
 
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