Track Tac

buffalo raceway/short track

S

strong08

New member
I raced at a place called buffalo raceway in Huntsville,tn it probably is a 1/9th mile or so pulling a 13 65. Flat a damp and sandy this was my first trip. The kart drove pretty good when is was pretty in the 375 a touch loss entering turn, but drive able. When I add 20lbs. Of weight for the 400 10 pounds each side of the seat the kart changed quite a bit it was little tight all the way through and having to turn wheel at times for a push any suggestion. The kart just changed and didn't like the extra weight.
The number before I left home.
Cross 64.5
Left 58.6
Front 46.7
Camber Lf between 0.25 &.50 Rf. 2/34
Front stagger 1 3/8
Rear stagger 1 3/8
Air left 4 right 5 on Burris 33s
 
Neat track - took my son there and let him race 330. I was only inch stagger on rear and only 1/2 pound difference in air on the right. I also stacked more weight on right side to get him through turns. Of course big weight difference, not sure this will help you. That was our first time there and we will return.
 
In Sprint racing I had a pretty simple rule; if there was a push, there was too much weight on the rear end, if it was loose, there was too much weight on the front end. That was, "in general".

I wonder, when you added weight, did the percentages change? I'm thinking they would have. I'm also wondering, wouldn't the extra weight call for more air in the tires? Maybe not, but if it was me, I would want to know for sure.

It's called tuning, and tuning is tough! (Al Nunley)

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
 
I am going to get it on the scales in the next day or 2 and find out what changes with the weight because it hated it. Look back I think I should have went up on air maybe half pound all the way around to free it up some.
 
Strong08, you should consider melting your lead into some thin sheets that will fit into your seat and held in place with a bolt thru the back of the seat, makes it much easier to add weight without throwing off your numbers alot. I run lite, medium, and heavy, so I keep 25lb and 50lb sheets of lead in the trailer at all times. Takes alot less time to do that way also.
 
The proof of that should be obvious, no matter the weight of the driver, the corner weights stay the same.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
 
Corner weights will change just by the driver shifting his position in the seat, or leaning to one side or the other more, which will change the percentages as well
 
If you are going to add bolt on weight for different classes, you should put it on the scales and prearrange the lead so as to know where it needs to be positioned so that you can achieve the numbers you need for the different weight class. Mark the weights and where they are suppose to go. Makes it a lot quicker when needing to make the changes.

Typically just adding seat lead (which is fine) will lower the nose slightly while raising the left side. That's not necessarily a bad thing because while it does this it will also raise your center of gravity slightly as well, which in turn will help with weight transfer. Provided you had sufficient transfer before adding the weight.

Personally if it were me, I would scale it with the extra bolt on weight and mark the positions. Keeping ALL weight OFF the frame and high as possible on the seat.
 
I am going to try to go up 1/2 pound on air all the way around when I add the 20 pound. My tires when I cleaned them up this morning looked like they had a glaze on this, it looked shinny. They felt soft to the touch but they was punch in the hi 50's. I think I was using to much prep. I used fts black bite in practice, goat in heats and back to the fts in feature. It felt locked down once the water went away and it became tacky.
 
rebsfan4 said:
If you are going to add bolt on weight for different classes, you should put it on the scales and prearrange the lead so as to know where it needs to be positioned so that you can achieve the numbers you need for the different weight class. Mark the weights and where they are suppose to go. Makes it a lot quicker when needing to make the changes.

Typically just adding seat lead (which is fine) will lower the nose slightly while raising the left side. That's not necessarily a bad thing because while it does this it will also raise your center of gravity slightly as well, which in turn will help with weight transfer. Provided you had sufficient transfer before adding the weight.

Personally if it were me, I would scale it with the extra bolt on weight and mark the positions. Keeping ALL weight OFF the frame and high as possible on the seat.
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X2
Also way to much cross for a very small bullring like buffalo
 
strong08 said:
I think I got the the fts from there website.
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If you ordered off of the website, get in touch with Paul Holt (Paul Holt Racing on Facebook). He is the distributor for Tn. He will help ya with the prep on the best way to use it. They have the Burris Specific prep and he was instrumental in helping develop it. He is also the one who started the web site to order from.
 
alvin l nunley said:
The proof of that should be obvious, no matter the weight of the driver, the corner weights stay the same.
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it occurred to me that some may not have understood the satirical nature of this reply.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
 
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