caster adjustments

Generally speaking, when turning left, it forces the left wheel down, and forces the right wheel up. Both of these motions, either singularly or in concert with each other, take weight out of the left rear tire.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
 
Always have to be careful with "generally speaking". What I see most often is less castor makes more turning power and more makes less.

Todd
www.dynamicsofspeed.com

More Caster makes Less Turning power, is this because more weight is transferred to the RR which in turn tightens the kart up? This is a lesson I am trying to learn coming from sprint learning the ovals. Just trying to picture your statement on paper.
 
More caster? Compared to what?
Less turning power? What is that?
Caster, as it is used in a kart, (when you turn the steering wheel to the left) pushes the LF wheel down and the RF wheel up. By itself, this would make the LR wheel lighter, breaking traction on the LR and allowing the kart to turn left. If you had no caster or kingpin inclination, and both rear tires were the same size, the kart would not turn. Finding the right combination could be called chassis tuning. And tuning is tough. The fact that the kart chassis is an evolving art makes it even tougher.

As important as corner weights are, I find it amazing that someone would go for four years without checking them. I wonder if the engine received the same amount of attention.

I know there are some really smart people on this site, but even they would have a hard time finding the solution to a problem with no information.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
 
It would be great if people would just stay out of things they really don't know about just read the post above mine
 
It would be great if people would just stay out of things they really don't know about just read the post above mine
what you're showing is how little you know of what you're talking about. I know what I'm talking about.

What in your experience gives you the right to tell other people what they can say? Maybe you should change your handle to clueless77.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
 
Regardless of Al's involvement with dirt, these same principles apply majorily to the karts he once ran.

Major differences is we also run a castor split, which further complicates some of the things written here. I think Al has a pretty well rounded grasp on these concepts. If you choose to battle Al's theories, join the groups and actually show substantial data as to why he's wrong. If not, shut up....
 
what you're showing is how little you know of what you're talking about. I know what I'm talking about.

What in your experience gives you the right to tell other people what they can say? Maybe you should change your handle to clueless77.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)

Clueless77? I thought you better then that... But if childish is what your going for. Your right about the ajustments, but name calling is idiotic.
 
Bob's has been really great here lately, for a short period of time. Racing and setting up go karts for dirt does not take an engineering degree, probably the more redneck you are the better. The final word I will say on giving someone advise, I can't prove it on a graph or blueprint or with a calculator, but it worked on the dirt track last Saturday.
 
Regardless of Al's involvement with dirt, these same principles apply majorily to the karts he once ran.

Major differences is we also run a castor split, which further complicates some of the things written here. I think Al has a pretty well rounded grasp on these concepts. If you choose to battle Al's theories, join the groups and actually show substantial data as to why he's wrong. If not, shut up....
Didnt see where I said anything to you or messed with ur panties bet you wouldnt tell me to shut up to my face but once tough guy typers are funny
 
Didnt see where I said anything to you or messed with ur panties bet you wouldnt tell me to shut up to my face but once tough guy typers are funny
there is no need for that. Not here on Bob's. We like to think of ourselves as more civilized and we refrain from violence. Telling someone to shut up is not nice either.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
 
More Caster makes Less Turning power, is this because more weight is transferred to the RR which in turn tightens the kart up? This is a lesson I am trying to learn coming from sprint learning the ovals. Just trying to picture your statement on paper.

There are several things going on. First, the change on the LF is reasonably minor because the tire weighs very little (or nothing) through much of the turn. More castor on the RF creates a bit more negative camber gain which will tend to hurt turning power getting in. The effect tends to carry through the corner. Likewise, less RF castor will tend to cause the RF to bite a bit harder getting in and the effect tends to carry through the corner.

The LF works pretty much the opposite but, again, because it weighs nearly nothing, we tend to hold a 3 or 4 degree split.

Todd
www.dynamicsofspeed.com
 
So is it the bigger split make a difference? Or actually the degree itself? Like what difference would 6 and 10 versus 10 and 14. Or 6 and 10 or 6 and 12. Only trying to understand better.
 
Good discussion Ltg. I tried giving my LF a little more caster (1 notch on the chassis marker) and it seemed to help. LF tire is wearing a little more on the outside because when I turn in it is pushing down on the track harder. I was thinking about giving LF a little more caster, but was debating taking a little out of the RF instead. Based upon what you said, I think I will try taking a little caster out of the RF to increase my caster split. Thanks
 
Good discussion Ltg. I tried giving my LF a little more caster (1 notch on the chassis marker) and it seemed to help. LF tire is wearing a little more on the outside because when I turn in it is pushing down on the track harder. I was thinking about giving LF a little more caster, but was debating taking a little out of the RF instead. Based upon what you said, I think I will try taking a little caster out of the RF to increase my caster split. Thanks

A positive split (most commonly used) is when the RF has more caster than the LF. Adding caster to the LF or removing caster from the RF will reduce the split. The turning power loss or gain due to camber gains can be offset by the static camber setting and should be taken into consideration when changing caster settings, especially at the RF. Don't forget the impact of the KPI (king pin inclination) or SAB (spindle angle build) into the equation.

Scottie
 
I don't care about split. I set each side to accomplish what I want the tire to do. More LF castor will help the LF do more work. This can change the balance and can change how the kart works a bit. At the end of the day, if someone wants to work with castor they should play with it and go with what produces the most speed. Honestly, I don't play with it once I've got the basic balance of the kart set because there is no inherent speed in castor.

Todd
www.dynamicsofspeed.com
 
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