Caster

Many years ago before plate front ends, we used a } front end with eccentrics on the king pin bolt. We were the only one around here, who had them. My caster and camber setting procedure for a baseline was to put the kart on a stand, go around front, get down and look at the angle of the tire to the track, > at the amount I guessed it was being turned out on the track. I would look at the track and look at the angle, then base line it the best I could using the eccentrics to match the angle of the tire to the track. Then the first time in off the track I'd feel across the RF, to see if it was heated more towards the inside, like I liked it to be. After that it's just a matter of either raising or lowering the RF, so it doesn't push turning in. If it goes in ok and the driver doesn't over drive the thing, it will come off the corner(apex for Al) ok.

Try it, setup on the front end is that simple. If your staggers ok, it will be easier. Basically, if your staggers ok and your weight out is ok... that's all you need from the front end. If that stuff's out some, you'll find if you don't fix the other stuff, the RF will still set up the same, but it will run warmer and you'll have to use more push the RF into the track with adjusting the RF up and down, to over come the lack of setup in the back end.

We never scaled but when we did check things it was most all the time the same, when stuff worked. 120, RF/LR and 60, LF/RR. I think you all now a days would call that high cross. We never cared about it, it was just interesting that when stuff worked, that was what it was.

ps... just thought bout it but a flat indoor track would have been a flatter RF tire to the track, or... less camber gain.
 
Yes we do use less Rf camber on this track Paul, -2.25 instead -2.75 to -3. It is a flat low bite bullring
 
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