Caster

maybe reverse caster on the 3rd of January we going indoors. But I think I will keep my camber negative ( IE -leaning in )
Its worked before.
 
edit up front: to reduce thought and further reduce the amount of thinking I put into a reply, I'm going to continue to avoid inserting smiley faces. I'm getting older now and if I stop my usual writing as it comes out without thinking, to insert a smiley face, I might move away from the subject because of not remembering where I was. To help me avoid that situation, I've located my location to the upper left of each post, so I always know where I am.

kmoody6 said:
Would also have to include chassis rake and tilt, which would change with stagger and cross adjustments, just saying...

Oh no, did I just mention stagger in a Kish post- sorry guys..... ;)
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Chassis rake and tilt would not need to be included.
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Trying to help out in another reply, I'm pretty sure rebsfan4 meant C.o.G. (Center of Gravity) in his post.

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Weddle Racing, I don't think you got your question answered. I think I know what your thinking about and asking about, but don't tell Al I'm answering because I think I know what someone else is thinking.

Wenddle Racing, we've never ever raced indoors because this dad was always to cheap and afraid a kart might get bent, but I do stay at the Holiday Inn across the street from the track every year at Fort Wayne, so my answer has to be as usual. Taking caster out for indoors, IMHO<notice the play to say what follows may or may not be correct; is rolling plates top towards the front some before scaling to get your indoor numbers. What that does is as rebsfan4 tells us. It reduces camber gain. My thoughts about the reduction are very simple. The reduction of camber gain causes your front end to effectively be wider. Then effectively wider, the front end is able to deal with lateral forces better and hopefully reduce the likelihood of bicycling.

Al would never think this possible, but I do know the next thought in your mind is about what other things are done to reduce the likelihood of bicycling, when racing indoors? The answer is everything you do differently is for that purpose, until the back end comes around on you or hops. When you get to that point, there's only one thing to change to fix 'for' either the snap loose or the hop. ... then it's back to do you then need to do additional things to keep the left side down.

Indoors is that simple.

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One other thing concerning the Holiday Inn stay and the Midgets racing at Fort Wayne. My RF/LR sway bar is about ready to be tested. If all works out, next year all winning Midgets there will have it.

... just a quick >true< story about Midgets. While in New York City to play at Carnegie Hall, my son and a couple of other musicians were walking past Madison Square Garden, when my son commented on how his car owner use to race Midgets there. ... yes, the practice of racing Midgets did not go along very well with some of those he was with.

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somehow writing, just ain't the same without smiley faces. but I think I still managed to put quantity ahead of quality.

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Quoting Al:

"Wild ramblings I know.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)"

ain't if fun though?
 
paulkish said:
Chassis rake and tilt would not need to be included.
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Then neither would tire width and radius.

But all affect actual kingpin angle as it is presented to the surface through all components.

A spreadsheet wouldn't be beneficial, as real world adjustments are more simple (range is fairly small).
 
But just to be clear to weddle,

We now have a discussion of 3 different caster conditions:

Normal (I consider this factory recommendations, usually has a 3-4° split)

Reverse (3-4° split but LF has more + caster. I have never used, Bryan has)

High bite bullring/syrup (very low caster normally around 4/4)

4 if we discussed Al's mention of sprints
 
I'm glad Zach brought up the caster because, I knew how it changed the spindle but I didn't know how it correlated with handling. I would not have thought to research caster at a time like this because I am busy researching elsewhere my tight in condition.
 
slack56 said:
I'm glad Zach brought up the caster because, I knew how it changed the spindle but I didn't know how it correlated with handling. I would not have thought to research caster at a time like this because I am busy researching elsewhere my tight in condition.
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Tight as in glued to the track, eating hp and speed?

Tight as in push and then we all want to know if the push is entry, mid corner or exit?

Or, tight as in me, too cheap to spend a nickel?
 
A nickel? I make it hail nickels lol. No it just doesn't like to enter it doesn't push hard but I'm not locked down if that makes sense? It does kill a little speed. That's if I go in balls to the wall. If I trail brake in its not too bad.
 
Paul, I think your post about bicycling was referring more or less to syrup or concrete. Indoor I'm asking about is indoor dirt, usually low bite. And as wild as your ramblings may be, they usually make sense and I usually do learn a thing or 2 at least. Thanks for the help, I do find it interesting about camber gain.....is this something I need to worry about indoor on dirt?
 
I know that Bryan but what I'm asking is how do you know if the caster your using is right for the track, or how do you know when to use certain caster numbers, or when to change it? To keep it simple
 
Weddle Racing said:
I know that Bryan but what I'm asking is how do you know if the caster your using is right for the track, or how do you know when to use certain caster numbers, or when to change it? To keep it simple
Click to expand...

If it turns it's ok. If it doesn't then it or something else might be wrong.
 
Caster is something that is learned over years, not days, or over the Internet...... Spend some time on Sunday after a race, and adjust it, write down your findings..... Then start over and do it again
 
We don't race Sundays, and by the time most races are over on Friday or Saturday night, its midnight or later and owners dont want karts on the track because they don't want to make more noise if possible, because of neighbors. Or at least thats the excuses we hear. So not alot of time to mess around with things like that
 
Al would never think this possible, but I do know the next thought in your mind is about what other things are done to reduce the likelihood of bicycling, when racing indoors? The answer is everything you do differently is for that purpose, until the back end comes around on you or hops. When you get to that point, there's only one thing to change to fix 'for' either the snap loose or the hop. ... then it's back to do you then need to do additional things to keep the left side down.

Indoors is that simple.

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Been pondering this for a couple days.
Everything you do for syrup is getting left side weight and reducing transfer.
So to stop the loose out and or hop, conversely you need to increase right side and or increase weight transfer.
Is it that simple?
 
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