Castor

On Maxxis EL’s I would start at the factory setting and adjust from there. If the kart is snapping loose in the center start taking some LF caster out. Don’t be afraid of going lower on rear stagger if the kart is loose from the center off. As you will find out EL’s on asphalt is a game of consistency and not over driving the corner. Usually slower is faster. Just my two cents! ��
 

Billy13

Member
Stock for Dirt?? I have no info on the kart setup, except what I have been running dirt. So if you are talking stock for asphalt I am not sure what that is.
 
When I say stock I am saying the center of the L block to the line on the chassis. Depending on chassis age this is probably 10lf and 12 rf for a newer chassis. Older chassis would be in the range of 8lf to 10 rf. I would start at 8lf and 10rf and adjust from there. Run higher air pressure with these tires on asphalt also to counter act the soft side walls.
 

Billy13

Member
worked on the kart tonight and if I remember right LF 6 RF 10 at the middle line. LF also has a Line towards front that would be about 13 and RF has one rearward that is about 3. So am I running to much for dirt? Would less tighten kart up on corner entry on dirt?
 
No if you have 6LF and 10RF that is actually a little low for dirt. A smaller split could tighten the kart up some on entry . By less split I mean adjusting the LF to 8 and leaving RF at 10 there would only be a two degree split instead of the origional 4 degree split. I think a better adjustment to tighten entry would be to increase the cross.

So that kart has lead adjustment in the front end that’s why the second/forward mark on the LF is at 13 so I’m assuming the LF L block is in the rear position which is good. And the RF L block is 3 on that second line which I am assuming is the back/rear line because the L block is in the forward position which is good also.

6LF and 10 rf is a good starting caster point for asphalt and even dirt if the conditions are right. Caster is more of a fine tuning adjustment that controls timing. Most effects will be felt in the center of the corner most of the time. The strategy I normally use is to adjust cross for corner entry and rear stagger for corner exit. Then use caster to adjust rotation in the center of the corner. With a champ of any kind or brand over the years I have never had any luck with high cross set-ups asphalt or dirt. Probably always been in the range of 48% to 56% cross.

For rear track width on asphalt. Run the LF as close as you can to the spindle arm and square/ align the LR with the LF. I use a level. Then set the RR out 1” farther than RF for alignment this will set your rear track width. Depending on axle length in your kart you may not be able to achieve this get as close as possible. It will be way different than where you run the rear hubs on dirt.

Make sure you are running a 4.50 or 5”, whatever width an EL LF tire is, on the LR for asphalt. Hope some of this helps.
 
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Billy13

Member
Alright thanks for your help. I knew about the left side info and couldn't get the LR out to the LF but it is close. I didn't know about the right side but will check that today before loading. I have always did high cross setups. right now I am Left 57% and 59% cross. I only have 2 LS tires but I have 4 RS tires I can use to play with stagger. I will let you know how it goes. Also didn't mention it before but this is a lower power predator setup. out of the box remove governor, remove fuel tank, add wennie pipe and go.
 

JFoster

Member
Race2win777 has great knowledge of champs. Currently running a champ on ELs also but with an animal. He’s helped me out tremendously.
 
It’s a EL spec tire class he is running. We have an open tire Sr. Champ class and EL Sr. Champ class at the local track we race.
 
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