Track Tac

Clone oil change ????

M

MaxxT Out

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Gotta fresh JRPW clone, well raced once 1 5 lap hot lap session, 2 8 lap heats, 1 12 lap feature, all on a true 1/5 mile track... When should I change the oil, every race night, every other race night?????????
 
I know several people who change it every couple races simply with gas it is not as corrosive as running methanol. My opinion its cheap insurance policy to change it after every night of racing.
 
Sometimes, if the track isnt kicking a lot of dirt up, you can go longer without changing it but its safe to just change oil after every race. Why not? Right?
 
Pay attention to what the oil looks like and smells like when you change it, that is a good way to keep track of how healthy the engine is and when it needs to be broken down and inspected. Black oil or burnt smelling oil is a bad sign, usually means the rod is gualding to the crank or piston may be trying to seize up. Metallic particals in the oil will be visible for the first couple races but should not be visible every time you change the oil, so keep an eye on that as well. Check the inside of your air filter and the inside of your filter adapter as well after each night of racing, if you see fine dust particles on either or both, you either need to replace the air filter or need to oil it better to keep the dirt out, dirt is these engines worst enemy and can cause chaos for the rings, valve sealing and wear and tear on internal parts.
 
Changing oil is cheap insurance ? Oil is a lot cheaper than a new motor or rebuild. I change after every race. If I run 2 features than I change oil after 1st race then again when cleaning up after racing next day
 
If your running a real dusty track and dirt is getting past the air filter, there is every bit of the need to change the oil just as often as you would with alky if not more. Dirt will kill these engines just like alky will if left in it
 
Theirs alot of good oils out here..
I have a different outlook on oil changes.. I'd drain and refill every 20-25 laps..
Let me explain..

Oil does 3 things for our non filtered air cooled engine.
#1) Its our lubricate
#2) Its a internal coolant
#3) Its our only internal filter (always drain hot to rid engine of any and all particales be it alum or trash)

I know spending the hi bucks for what suppose to be better grade oils give you the idea you can run it longer and essence cost breaks basically even..
I would NOT want these naturally acculated particles to travel throughout my crankcase anylonger than possible.. Heck if nothing else drain the oil in entervals as I suggested and deposit the drained oil in a gall jug.. Allow to set for a week and strain off the cleaner oil thats risent to the top and trash the left overs in the bottem..

On another statement above.. I disaggree about corrosion as per methanol to todays gas.. Ethanol is far more corrosive even at 10-15% than methanol that someone flushes after a race night.. Fact is you really need to flush your clone every night using NON ETHANOL gas with atlkeast WD40 added..
 
Oil does 3 things for our non filtered air cooled engine.
#1) Its our lubricate
#2) Its a internal coolant
#3) Its our only internal filter (always drain hot to rid engine of any and all particales be it alum or trash) ???????
.
Mr Jerry......what about the 4 th thing ...#4) It has Detergent, it cleans while lubricate, cool and filter at the same time
.
 
Dover Power said:
Theirs alot of good oils out here..
I have a different outlook on oil changes.. I'd drain and refill every 20-25 laps..
Let me explain..

Oil does 3 things for our non filtered air cooled engine.
#1) Its our lubricate
#2) Its a internal coolant
#3) Its our only internal filter (always drain hot to rid engine of any and all particales be it alum or trash)

I know spending the hi bucks for what suppose to be better grade oils give you the idea you can run it longer and essence cost breaks basically even..
I would NOT want these naturally acculated particles to travel throughout my crankcase anylonger than possible.. Heck if nothing else drain the oil in entervals as I suggested and deposit the drained oil in a gall jug.. Allow to set for a week and strain off the cleaner oil thats risent to the top and trash the left overs in the bottem..

On another statement above.. I disaggree about corrosion as per methanol to todays gas.. Ethanol is far more corrosive even at 10-15% than methanol that someone flushes after a race night.. Fact is you really need to flush your clone every night using NON ETHANOL gas with atlkeast WD40 added..
Click to expand...

Couldnt agree more with this, i try to get ethanol free gas anytime i can, my fuel comes from a marina nearby, ethanol free 87 is what i use unless im at a race where the track spec's a station and pump number.
 
;)
Weddle Racing said:
Couldnt agree more with this, i try to get ethanol free gas anytime i can, my fuel comes from a marina nearby, ethanol free 87 is what i use unless im at a race where the track spec's a station and pump number.
Click to expand...
I'd run that also. However we're told it has to have ethanol in it to pass tech. During my after race clean up I run motor pull fuel line & let run til as gas is run out. Then I change oil & go at it again next week
 
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