Clutch Question
- Thread starter Spade13
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JPMKarting
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The discs brand new are app. .125
When they get down to .108-.110, we toss them.
In addition to discs, we check the floater for warp, and usually end up replacing the floater.
We rebuild clutches for $50 labor plus parts. Our typical rebuild consists of discs, floater, and freshly ground plates. We also clean and inspect all your hardware and levers, as well as checking the spring rate to make sure all are matched correctly
When they get down to .108-.110, we toss them.
In addition to discs, we check the floater for warp, and usually end up replacing the floater.
We rebuild clutches for $50 labor plus parts. Our typical rebuild consists of discs, floater, and freshly ground plates. We also clean and inspect all your hardware and levers, as well as checking the spring rate to make sure all are matched correctly
paulkish
old fart
Clutch disks are cheap enough in the scheme of things that if your going to take the thing apart, just throw disks and floaters at it and be done with it. Unless a disk clutch has been toasted and your just taking it apart because it's time to do something with it, throw some new parts at it and be done with it.
The biggest concern I ever had is with how the levers which press the disks together wore. That's where I think wear can effect how it operates more then disks and floaters. The disks are one thing but the levers which operate them constantly are where wear IMHO, makes the most difference. The disks wearing means you got to clamp them more, the levers and what they pivot on changes "how" it operates. I was always more concerned about how the thing did it's thing, then if it had the ability to lock the disks up. I even experimented with altering how the levers ramped up with a flat file, to change how they attacked compressing the disks.
And the concerns I expressed span disk clutches used from boxstock briggs, to Gas and Oil Yammi, to K30. The net of it is we never had a clutch failure except for one time a little stone getting caught between a lever. And if it happened once I had to fix it so it would not cost us an on track break down. ... nawwww too lazy to fix it and luckily it only happened one time. ...
ps... When you take your clutch apart just for the heck of it look closely at the working part of the lever which squeezes the disks. I think you will see wear there.
... or not because this is only IMHO and sure ain't necessairly right anyway. ...
The biggest concern I ever had is with how the levers which press the disks together wore. That's where I think wear can effect how it operates more then disks and floaters. The disks are one thing but the levers which operate them constantly are where wear IMHO, makes the most difference. The disks wearing means you got to clamp them more, the levers and what they pivot on changes "how" it operates. I was always more concerned about how the thing did it's thing, then if it had the ability to lock the disks up. I even experimented with altering how the levers ramped up with a flat file, to change how they attacked compressing the disks.
And the concerns I expressed span disk clutches used from boxstock briggs, to Gas and Oil Yammi, to K30. The net of it is we never had a clutch failure except for one time a little stone getting caught between a lever. And if it happened once I had to fix it so it would not cost us an on track break down. ... nawwww too lazy to fix it and luckily it only happened one time. ...
ps... When you take your clutch apart just for the heck of it look closely at the working part of the lever which squeezes the disks. I think you will see wear there.
... or not because this is only IMHO and sure ain't necessairly right anyway. ...