Crank Case gasket change on LO206...

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RinkKart#08

New member
I purchased an LO206 at the track that appears to have a leaking side crank case gasket. The engine is not very old and was ran very little. Assuming this is the cause for the oil leak, is it possible to loosen the bolts and change the gasket without breaking the seal on the engine? Does anyone know if a B/S Dealer or B/S allows them to be sent back for repairs?? Thanks,
-RinkKart#08
 
No sorry. Only option is a new short block. But they are relatively cheap. About $280. Plus the open animal guys would buy yours to build. They like using these blocks.
 
Since you couldnt change the gasket but just bought the engine...if it runs good like it should you could possibly drain all oil, loosen sidecover bolts to pop the sidecover back a little, clean all the oil around the sidecover with brake cleaner or parts cleaner, and apply some hi temp silicone around the entire sidecover, maybe pushing some in between the sidecover and block a little, let it dry and set up some then try tightening the bolts back down, and applying another layer of silicone around the sidecover where it was leaking before? That would possibly work and save you the expense of having to buy another short block wouldnt it? May not look the prettiest but who cares how pretty it looks, its a racing engine
 
Clean the exterior of the motor with brake clean and the apply some rtv around the outside of the block along the outer edges of the gasket. It's not perfect but, it'll seal it up about 75% of the time.
 
I was thinking about carefully taking two gaskets...the first one cut the inside of the bolts out and apply to the block with a light RTV silicone and then the second gasket with the outside of the bolts cut out and again with an ever thin layer of RTV silicone on the then "marry" the two gaskets together once it gets a little "tacky" and tighten the bolts snug and let it sit for a day, then tighen up a little more and then run till it gets hot and slowly tighten the bolts to spec. I've been thinking about this all day if I could carefully do it, I know I could just buy a short block but...then I wouldn't have this cool story about a $125 LO206 on the PODIUM BABY!!!
 
if you can get it loose enough to get 2 half gaskets in.
Try this, use a full gasket and cut it at the top, slip it in and you only have a little break at the top to worry about.

Disregard this (bright idea) not feasible .


aviation cement could work as well.
 
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cut it with a razor at the two sealed bolts. you now have a top and bottom half slide into place and seal at the two bolts.
 
I got one from Briggs that started leaking after 6-7 race days ,thought the world was cracking in half ! Put a,pan under it ,caught less than an ounce ,checked bolts etc . The way I solved it is to drain the oil after the last race ,fill with oil ,on race day drain oil into my fill funnel ,top off to the proper level and dump it back in , it doesn't loose but a drop or to on race day .that was 40 race days ago motor is still running strong . Now if it's a stream or steady drip? I'd be concerned and figureing out how to stop it and not get caught up in tech
 
They make boats out of screen and put FLEX SEAL on them.
It's worth a try.
 
Why would you get tossed/dq in tech for having silicone or sealer around the sidecover as long as the seals are intact? Surely tech officials that tech this engine are aware that gaskets do sometimes fail or wear out and oil does leak, right?
 
I see some motors that are so dirty you couldn't tell if there was silicone, permatex spray sealer or flex seal on them unless you pressure wash the engine first. I agree that if i can't find that the seals have been tampered with i would not DQ someone for sealing an oil leak in such a manner.
 
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