EGT questions

Big Chris

Member
1) Mychron manual say 100-120mm from piston skirt, since we're not running two strokes, how far away from the exhaust valve seat are guys installing the egt thermocouple?
2) what are some ideal temps, at what location (how far from ex valve seat),under WOT, moderate load? I'm thinking 1300-1400F?

Thoughts? Opinions?
 
I mount mine 3/4" from the face of the port.
1300-1400 is too high.

1275 peak is what I look at. Maybe that's conservative, but considering the melting point of cast aluminum, I'd rather be safe than sorry.

I'm not as concerned with the actual location as I am that it is consistent from one pipe to the next. Once you have a base line established on the tune, you can go from there. I used to rely solely on egt, but a/f ratio on the dyno seems more beneficial to me now AND you don't worry about the size of the egt thermocouple protruding into the pipe changing the effective area of the pipe (causing restriction.) Of course this can be accounted for as well - just something to consider when you're selecting a pipe.


--
Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cuts
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Celebrating 25 years of service to the karting industry
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
Brian, on your experience, how much does a main jet change of .001" typically change the egt reading? I.e. All other things being equal say I have 1150F peak w a .052 main. If I went to a .051 main what would be the new temp I'd probably observe at the egt thermocouple?
 
Place the probe about one inch from the flange with the tip of the probe in the center of the flow. It's not real important. The readings you get, are the readings you get.

There is no high limit on the EGT temps. What will happen, if you go too lean, the temp will reach a peak and then it will go down. Sneak up on it. This can happen on the low-end too. Sometimes, at peak torque, the engine can go lean just like on the top. If it does this, go bigger on the low-speed jet. If the clutch locks up, causing a drop in RPM, it's been my experience that the carb needs to be richer on the low-speed needle.

There is no truth to the rumor that you're going to melt the aluminum if the EGT goes too high.
What can happen is the EGT will reach a peak and then go down, that means you're lean and you could possibly melt the piston. Melting the piston will not happen instantaneously with a drop in EGT, you'll have time to let off and head for the pits. Whenever you see the temperature lower than normal, always go richer first. If it goes lower still, that tells you it was lower because it was rich, not because it was lean. It takes some getting used to.

As far as the probe blocking the exhaust flow, I would love to see the data verifying that it causes a loss in power.

There is no perfect temp with the EGT. It will change with the compression ratio, the air density, maybe the cam and maybe the spark plug. Take some time and figure out what the ideal EGT is for your setup. One piece of advice, get an air density gauge. With a two cycle, because of the adjustable carburetor jetting, you can adjust on the fly, but with the fixed carburetor you're using, you need to anticipate what jets you should have in the carb before going out on the track.


Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory.(Al Nunley)
 
Brian, do you have any pictures or other info on your a/f ratio setup? I'm looking to set up one on my dyno.
Thanks Jim
.
 
Al as a dyno owner operator, I was asking another dyno owner operator to share thier data correlation. Not an explanation of theory. Thanks anyway.
Brian, based on your experience, at WOT what correlation have you observed changing jet size by .001" and egt all other thing being equal. Please see my previous post above.
I also would be interested in seeing ur a/f setup.
Dyno is stuska water brake.
 
Al as a dyno owner operator, I was asking another dyno owner operator to share thier data correlation. Not an explanation of theory. Thanks anyway.
and as a former owner of a go power water break computerized dyno, I was only trying to help. Apparently I was wasting my time.
 
Not the greatest picture, we had this on file from some time ago. It does show the 02 sensor in the side of the header and the ECM unit that we use. This system is not cheap, $1200.00 , but has worked very well for many years. We use the Lamda method and it makes adjusting the jet size very easy.

Steve
www.Bakerracingengines.com
 

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Your reputation precedes you, & it seams you do that quite a bit on this forum. You never actually answered a question instead just more pontificating.
 
A/F, lambda is certainly more valuable on a dyno, but not legal or convenient at the track. Using EGT and an air density gauge at the track is indeed an excellent way to keep jetting correct....I prefer peak temp between 1180-1250 and do not change jets within that range unless it seems likely that weather will be changing.
 
Your reputation precedes you, & it seams you do that quite a bit on this forum. You never actually answered a question instead just more pontificating.
whenever I was in a discussion with my wife, and it came to the point where she knew she was going to lose, she would change the subject. Something like; yeah, but I remember last year....

You should point out where I don't answer questions rather than just throwing out disparaging remarks.

"Pontificating", did you know that Wikipedia has no definition of that word. It does have a lot of listings where the word was used in literature, and you get the idea of what it means, but that's not a definition. It is often said that; Little minds, use big words, for the purpose of obfuscation. Most certainly not your intention, but it's true.

Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory.(Al Nunley)
 
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