Thanks for the replies. Great info on the Tillotson flywheel situation - probably better than a stock e-start Predator one, but not "bulletproof". Weighing out cost to benefits to gain by switching to the Tillotson engine.
I guess it might help to explain what I have and what I'm doing. I'm very "laterally challenged" and I am building a trike to get around at racetracks and large open public areas. It will be used as a mobility vehicle, not as a "sport" vehicle, as in no wheelies, drifting, etc. The forward/reverse box and the differential axle I have are both rated at 10+/- HP, so making a lot of HP is pointless. I have a series 30 style Comet clone converter setup with the upgraded 7" driven unit. As for power - I already have a new (recoil start) non-Hemi Predator, along with a few odds and ends for a non-Hemi engine from past projects. My goal for the engine was to remove the governor parts inside the case, remove the oil sensor, new top plate, jet the carb, new air filter, new exhaust, probably a 2* advance key, 18lb springs - basically a "Stage 1" upgrade - and of course, the electric start, hopefully with charging coils.
Realistically the biggest question I have on this - there seems to be a lot of confusion about the RPM limits of a stock Predator flywheel. Seems like the consensus is that 5000 RPM is about the limit of the little hamsters running inside a stock flywheel - above that and they start tossing flip-flops through the fan cover. Again, realistically, 5000 RPM still needs a functioning governor. It's removal was more of a reliability issue, and not a deal breaker if it should stay. I wasn't looking as a governor being a top speed limiter as much as a broken part winging the RPM's to the moon scenario. At this point a lightened "stock" flywheel - AKA the Tillotson - would be a safer choice, but still not that much of an upgrade if the governor needs to be retained. Should the T/son need a governor retained for a "Stage 1" style engine?
So I'm probably at making the decision of cost VS benefits. I could probably buy a stock flywheel, starter, charging coils, etc. cheap and piece together the electric start function, since I will not be using the factory key box anyways. This is what I would do if I could find a "good" e-start/charging flywheel reasonably priced (for a non-Hemi). I can add a complete electric start kit to my Predator for +/- $100 and modify the engine as necessary. I can dump the Predator for $100 and buy a $210 Duromax e-start engine - again, needing engine mods. Then there's the dumping the Predator and buying the $300 Tillotson with the better flywheel, needing less mods.
So please, any thoughts or flaws in my logic? Not trying to make the budget entirely dictate the build, just trying to spend money wisely where it is NEEDED. Thanks for the input.