First Time Burris 33 user

R

richie59

Member
I am racing a series at a Burris track this year. I have been exclusively a Maxxis EL and HT3 user, and am totally unfamiliar with set up for Burris. The last race I ran my Millenium Quantum was hooked up pretty well on HT3s. Stagger was 1" rear, 1.5 front, on 5 lbs rt, 4 left. My almost new Burris 33s are mounted on standard 10" rt, 8.5" left rear, and 6.5 left front. First off, the stagger doing nothing except inflating to 7# is 1/2" rear and under 1" front. I am told the track I will run Sat. is hard, and Burris tires require more air pressure, and that I should air up the ones I want to 1/4" more that the size I want, heat, and cool to achieve more stagger. Should I run the same stagger that helped hook up with HT3s? And how do I determine eventual air pressure for this track? Help, anyone. I need schooling on these dang Burris'. Thanks folks for any help. Richie59
 
Find someone that races at the track and ask what stagger to be using. Being a millenium rider myself, I am almost always between 1" and 1 1/4" rear stagger, front never changes from 1 1/2". To stretch the Burris bigger, put them in a hot box for 10-15 mins around 100-120* and when you take them out, immediately put the valve core in them and air them up, keep putting air in them until they are 1/4" bigger than what you want, then dunk the tire in Ice cold water and leave it there until its cool. Let them sit for 20-30 minutes to come back to room temp, then let the air down to 6 in the rights and 5 in the lefts, and check size. To shrink a Burris just take the valve core out and put the tires in the hot box for 20 minutes at around 150-200*
 
Tire tuff Mint green, more tire tuff mint green, and some more tire tuff mint and LOTS of time to dry. With orange cut 50/50 with naptha as a prw. It really seems to be working on hard dry slick tracks. Already have had a 85 degree race day and worked better than my black sand tires that were prepared nearly perfect and a fourteen day wait period. Don't be afraid to put over forty pounds of air to stretch out the tires. Just don't go to far, a real pain to shrink. Burris just take time to get right, but they last and last. Had a set with I know over fifteen race days win last week. Big tracks don't roll inside. Short tracks roll regular tire tuff. As usual you mileage may vary.
 
Keep your kart set-up the same, (at least to start with,) regardless of what name is on the sidewall of the tires.

You will need to size them (just like any other brand) to the final sizes that you want for your chassis.
1 1/2" front, 1 1/4" rear could eb a good starting point depending on your track configuration -- again, start off with duplicating what worked with you Maxxis set-up.
You will likely be slightly higher on air with Burris 33s than on Pinks due to their floppy sidewalls. As far as how much air, that is best determined by how much they increase in pressure throughout a run in my opinion. Keep in mind that while you will gain some roll speed on higher air, you eventually get to a point where you lose side bite and grip. It is a trade-off to be sure. Whatever gives you just enough grip in the corners and keeps your corner exit rpm the highest is what to look for. I'll take corner speed every time over chute speed.

If I can help you further with our Burris tire program, cutting, preps, etc, please feel free to call the shop.



-----
Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
27 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
Thanks Brian. I've had lots of good advice here, and I'm working it for tomorrow, if we don't have a rainout. Richie59
 
WOFFER said:
Tire tuff Mint green, more tire tuff mint green, and some more tire tuff mint and LOTS of time to dry. With orange cut 50/50 with naptha as a prw. It really seems to be working on hard dry slick tracks. Already have had a 85 degree race day and worked better than my black sand tires that were prepared nearly perfect and a fourteen day wait period. Don't be afraid to put over forty pounds of air to stretch out the tires. Just don't go to far, a real pain to shrink. Burris just take time to get right, but they last and last. Had a set with I know over fifteen race days win last week. Big tracks don't roll inside. Short tracks roll regular tire tuff. As usual you mileage may vary.
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No way will I ever pay $55 for a qt of tire prep, if I never win anything. That's highway robbery. I will try my own mixtures that have worked well on Maxxis and see what happens. OJT, lol.
 
The extra price of the tire tuff is about the same as how much you spend on prep to make maxxis fast or competitive. You dont use much at all of the tire tuff or the mint, a little goes a long ways, as they say. I can make 2 quarts last a season with the Mint or Tire Tuff on Burris. I prefer Palmetto Speedshop's prep though for internal work and at the track, I use the mint during the week to wipe. Palmetto inside original is perfect for Burris tires, especially 33's and is all I use anymore internally unless I roll Goat in a set for real crappy wet tracks
 
$55 for a qt of prep that works is a lot cheaper than ruining a few sets of tires trying to come up with a homebrew that works. JMO
 
Forgot about the Palmetto stuff. Real good prep with great people behind it. P.S. the tire tuff will pay for its self in tire life on the first set. Don't roll a Burris outside in most if not all Track Tack stuff. Just wipe on a sunny day. Like I said they take time, but it's time well spent since they last so long.
 
My homebrew worked perfect at Ashway Speedway Saturday. Had the best qualifying time and speed I've ever had, and my kart was hooked up better than ever. However, the track slicked up with 48 degree weather just before dark, for the main event, and I was loose and blew it. Some have suggested with that combination I should have reduced tire pressure, and rolled on something with goat, or Track Tac orange. I have several combinations of goat and acrysol, but didn't know to use it. Anyone have suggestions or comments. It was my first time there, and only second time at a Burris track. Good track BTW, and lots of fun for this old guy.
 
richie59 said:
My homebrew worked perfect at Ashway Speedway Saturday. Had the best qualifying time and speed I've ever had, and my kart was hooked up better than ever. However, the track slicked up with 48 degree weather just before dark, for the main event, and I was loose and blew it. Some have suggested with that combination I should have reduced tire pressure, and rolled on something with goat, or Track Tac orange. I have several combinations of goat and acrysol, but didn't know to use it. Anyone have suggestions or comments. It was my first time there, and only second time at a Burris track. Good track BTW, and lots of fun for this old guy.
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If your home brew had no goat in it goat later was NOT the answer, most likely just to high on air and maybe one xtra wipe of what you were doing, also just for info purpose there is a huge difference from Goat to Track Tac orange, less air and a coat of orange might have done it.
Be prepared for next race watch lap times of a class 3 races ahead of yours if there lap times are falling off you know the track is falling off as well, when the track is falling off less air, one exception to that the track is hard and just goes to a dust bowl.

Good Luck !!
 
I use to race there and if it's the same as it was then 99% of the time that track picks up in speed and doesn't fall off at dark. If it got slick to you it's prob because the moisture was coming up and your tires were prepped wrong. When the moisture comes up (when the sun sets) the track will pick up 2-4 tenths, 2 most of the time. Go to the parts trailer there and ask for Hilliard's prep it works there. They own the track and make the prep.
 
Thanks Wes Snow and Racing Promoter. Those are great suggestions. Maybe I will be better prepared next points race with Hilliard prep and TT orange. BTW, the homebrew does not have goat in it. Someone else suggested I go to a mixture with goat. We shall see. Thanks again men.
 
Remember once goat is in a tire always in a tire I would only try that with an older set of tires to test his theory, because if you find out it don't work with a set you wish to run going back to your brew that worked you will not get the same results in that set of tires, If you were that good without it I doubt you need it the track can't fall off that bad in a few classes.
 
leave the kart in the sun all you can then set your air pressures with the tire hot. after the sun goes down and it cools off the tire will drop air pressure. If you need to make air pressure adjustments make your adjustments using the new lower pressure as your base. Ours usually will drop 2 LBS. The pressure will come back up to the higher number after a few laps. If you run 7 in the heat of the day, as it cools it will go down to say 5<( make your cooler evening adjustments here). if you add air back up to 7 the air will increase to 9 after a few laps and the tire heats up. It doesn't have to be hot out for this to work, the sun does it. Do you have to run the SS33A?
 
callen said:
leave the kart in the sun all you can then set your air pressures with the tire hot. after the sun goes down and it cools off the tire will drop air pressure. If you need to make air pressure adjustments make your adjustments using the new lower pressure as your base. Ours usually will drop 2 LBS. The pressure will come back up to the higher number after a few laps. If you run 7 in the heat of the day, as it cools it will go down to say 5<( make your cooler evening adjustments here). if you add air back up to 7 the air will increase to 9 after a few laps and the tire heats up. It doesn't have to be hot out for this to work, the sun does it. Do you have to run the SS33A?[/QUOT

Thanks, I understand that, but what should be to target pressure just before I go out on the track after it's cooled off and the track is slicked off with the risen moisture? Say I'm running 6 and 5 during the day, and it's working. What to do for that late class main?
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