just willy-nilly cutting the head can get you into trouble. Two things, valve clearance and compression ratio. An increasing in compression is no good if the fuel you run does not have the octane to match. Knowing the final compression ratio is important when choosing the correct fuel. Air density will tell you what jets to run.shaving the head .100" is that not a lot? If i'm not wrong, thats about 2,5mm? We shaved ours 1,2mm and used the thin head gasket which puts you at about 2mm, do you think running 2,5mm shaved and thin head gasket is viable for endurance racing? Thats a lot! running .280" cam and stock rockers!
This is very bad advise. Flow is always the determiner of power potential. Compression ought never to interfere w/flow.jsstump said:Compression first then flow. Good luck.
Thats pretty darn good deal right there under 400.00 with free shipping, what else can you ask for, I'll try this first if it was me, might look into one this year to play around with, thanks for posting that.for 400 and free shipping you get 20hp out of thre box. 440cc fron vegas karts
Over a year to get this sage introspective. No actual advise for the original poster as to his question however. In this particular style engine that the poster asked about. the compression ratio (static and dynamic) in stock form is very anemic. Not from poor flow but from a huge combustion chamber and very dished piston. As was asked by the poster "how to make decent HP on a budget", first raising the compression will give him the quickest and cheapest gains. Its very simple and cheap to raise the static compression on these. It already will flow relatively well. On a budget with a big block GX engine, raising the compression first will give much larger gains than increasing the flow will. On a big block GX, you wont see the gains a big cam, porting and a bigger carb have to give until you get the factory 8 to 1 compression ratio up some.This is very bad advise.