has anyone used a monster cam like this?


okay, i decided to get the 1.1:1 ratio champion rockers, can stand up to 9000 rpm, i think my motor will turn more but thats just a guess, the cam im getting is the isky 360, i know im gonna have to clear the block, but do i have to clear anything else for it, ive heard you have to clear the side of the lobe on the cam, is that true? i want to run this cam and rocker set up because i think it will make great power and it will be durable, any suggestions welcome
my son and i built our engines using the 356 cam. we had to clear the area right at the base of the cylinder a bit to clear the lobe, but other than that, we didn't have to do anything (didn't grind on the cam at all)....but before you start grinding, remember that heat expands metal to a certain degree and shaving just enough to show a little light between the lobe and the block might not be enough to clear once the engine is hot. go ahead and cut it so that you can see that it won't hit. even taking this much away doesn't have a detrimental effect on the block...

please keep in mind that this cam makes it's power above about 8000 rpm... i've learned that on a short track it jsut doesn't get up to that range with the constant on and off on the throttle, but i race on a large car track (paved oval) and it's wide open throttle all the way around, so we can get up there fairly fast....

and it does give great power! my son won his first feature on this motor.....if you want specs on what we did, send me a pm!! be happy to share!
jrw31526 no matter which cam you choose you must check all clearance yourself, you must machine or modify as needed, one person may tell you it is not needed but you have a different combination.
Why do you need to turn more than 9 grand????......Just wondering why?? also remember the AGK article is a .276 lift Cam with who knows what kind of c/l,overlap.base circle,Be Warned,Be Safe, Be Careful
Make sure when you clearance, with parts that move, you do more than a tiny clearance.
I'd never want to leave less that .060 clearances on such violently active components as the cam....clearing from the crank or rod, or, for that matter, valve spring coil bind.....or valves to piston.
or other areas that have a potential to interfere with one another.

On the ARC flywheels, never use less than .040 clearance from flywheel outer diameter to coil legs.
This is because, ARC, with their wisdom in engineering for these components, realizes that cranks "whip" and do not run perfectly true, under higher rpm.
Thus they have made the magnet of "rare earth" which creates a very strong magnetic field, and allows the clearance from coil to flywheel to be expanded....without loss of ignition power.

In fact, under a .040 clearance, flywheel to coil legs, the coil CAN be burned out by the powerful magnetic field created by the flywheel.

Thinking that the closer the better, on flywheel outer diameter to coil legs, is an erroneous thought.

Hope this helps.
.......Paul Doss
pd power.....thanks for the advice on the coil....never really even gave it a thought! we checked all our clearances when we started building our motors and the cam was the worst for catching the edge of the lobe on the block. after we cut and smoothed that down, it was a lot of hand twisting the crank and "feeling" for any signs of catching....even the smallest would have caused damage, so we were extra careful...after both my son and i did the twist test and didn't feel any metal to metal contact (before mounting the flywheel and watching the springs and valves), we finished putting it together and fired it up..our problems happened after we put laps on the motors and found the pushrods were putting everything into a bind at high rpm....wasn't something that we could feel or see when it was on the bench....

thanks for the advice on the flywheel and the coil! i'll keep that in mind when we start on this years engines!
IM decking the head .060 and using a .045 head gasket I might use a thinner head gasket if I.have insight piston valve clearance