How to set toe quickly and accuratue

Make sure that your heim (rod) ends aren't worn or loose. Also check wheel bearings, king pins and bearings, etc.
Make sure you are snugging the tie rod jam nuts each time you check as well.
The more wear/slop that there is in these items, the more frustrating aligning your chassis will become.
Make sure that the pin in your toe lock fits snug -- I've seen some that didn't fit tight = problems.

Having your driver hold a bit of tension on the wheel (the same direction and tension every time) will go a long way to getting consistent readings as well.


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Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
30 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
I honestly think your over thinking this whole thing. From brand new karts to used they all have a tad of play in them, which is enough to see with any laser. Set one side, roll kart back and forth, make sure it’s good, switch to other side and do the same. If I spent that much time on toe, I’d start drinking....
 
I had a fair deal of slop in my frt end after one race. I didn't notice it much before we raced it but it had some. After running it i took it apart and put some calipers on the bolts going through the vertical through the spindles(not sure of proper term). They were .002 smaller than other bolts i had of the same size. Replaced them and dang near all slop was gone, i was ready to replace the bearings but appears they are ok.
 
racinnut15xm said:
I had a fair deal of slop in my frt end after one race. I didn't notice it much before we raced it but it had some. After running it i took it apart and put some calipers on the bolts going through the vertical through the spindles(not sure of proper term). They were .002 smaller than other bolts i had of the same size. Replaced them and dang near all slop was gone, i was ready to replace the bearings but appears they are ok.
Click to expand...

Good point. I've seen a lot of chassis come through the shop that had the thread of the bolt inside the heim end. Realize that the thread of a bolt is almost always undersized to the shank of the bolt. Something as simple as what direction the bolt goes through a heim can make a big difference in how much slop there is to the steering. There is a reason that military and aero industry spec a bolt much differently (mostly shank and very little thread) than our local hardware stores.
FWIW: You can greatly improve much of the hardware you are using on your chassis by simply using a longer bolt, and cutting the threads shorter, so that there's maximum amount of surface area for the shank, and just enough thread for what is required. We did this for many years on our sprint car chassis before some of the newer titanium and mil-spec stuff became more readily available.
 
At Boeing we called this grip length, and we had a simple tool for measuring it then go get the proper bolt. It is hard buying from a bolt company or hardware store.
 
Just had a lite bulb moment.
Ream the pin hole on the toe lock , with a tapered reamer then use a tapered pin .
That should take the play out.
 
All good thinking.

Space between 2 pieces of toe lock must remain the same as when reamed for tapers to fit tightly in both pieces.

Should eliminate any slop if both tapers are fully engaged.

The other thought is if only taper reaming 1 piece, more than half the slop can be eliminated.
 
Yea I thought about the locations after posting. Good idea on the reaming the top with a straight bottom.
Ten thirty two bolt and nut be alot simpler.
Or set it and forget it :)
 
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pdc said:
At Boeing we called this grip length, and we had a simple tool for measuring it then go get the proper bolt. It is hard buying from a bolt company or hardware store.
Click to expand...

Depending on which Boeing facility you were at, we may have purchased some surplus hardware (ie floor sweepings) from there just for our race car. :)
 
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