I know of someone running Ital Red clutches on their twin F100, so that's an option, though when I had an ARC, it had the same type of clutch and that broke and I was only seeing 14000rpm. I'm in two minds, though the idea of being able to play with the clutch slip over a useable rev range does appeal.
You have to run the #35 chain which you cant get in a competition chain in Australia either. Well at least I've never seen it. I get all my stuff from USA. You will need all the consumables as spares because you wont be able to use anyone elses stuff because it just doesnt excist here. It cost a few bucks to set it all up and you WILL have to mess around a lot to get it to fit but once you're up and running you will NEVER EVER go back to a DD (direct drive) set-up.
arc100, thanks for the offer, I will probably get in touch after the new year when I've had a chance to have a good look at all my options. I suppose my most immediate question right now is... how do you start it? I have an external starter for my old KT100s with strike clutch, and thought of putting the starter nut on the jackshaft, somehow ... is this appropriate? my engine has a splined crank so no way to attach anything direct to engine.
For the kts we use the jackshaft as an overdrive setup. We set the ratio at about 2.7-3.0 to 1. So the engine is turning about 10500rpm and the jackshaft i and clutch are turning about 3,874 rpms. We lock the clutches around 10,000-11,000 rpms where ever the powerband hits for the engine. Once the clutch is locked in it doesnt matter how many rpms you turn on the top end becuse the discs are no longer slipping. The overdrive helps greatly with the amount of wear the discs are subjected too becuse the clutch is turning so much slower than the engine when it locks up. A lot less expence in clutch rebuilds. The belt drive for the jackshaft will require a crankshaft pully on the kts it keyways on a tapered shaft.Dont know how your engine crank is set up but some guys make special drivers for their engines. The rear pully on the jackshaft is where the large overdrive pully is located. This also eleminates the weight of the clutch on the crank so the engine seems to accelaretes faster.Plus this make gear ratios extremly flexable, you can change the # of teeth on the clutch driver, the# of teeth on pullys for the overdvie ratio. You can go to a very low ratio 13 to 1 with a much smaller axel sprocket for short tracks. Hope this helps you. Some of the other guys on here my be able to help you better with your type of engine. Jack Burroghs and Jon Brogden or John Hilton can probably help. See ya Mitchell
Thanks JB "under drive" it is, ut we'll whisper "gear reduction"" we use the jackshaft as an overdrive setup" or do u mean as a gear reduction setup ?
wideglider my correction of your overdrive vs underdrive wasn't a personal nit pick which perhaps spurred your "big boy pants" chastening in the what's a kart part worth thread. It was an general info correction for all newbies who might have erroneously gleaned a j/s was an overdrive or quasi taller gear rather than more accurate quasi underdrive or gear reduction device. It seems it was taken personal, and caused a retort but that was not the intent. Sorry if you took it like that. JMHOYeah Jack mybad your right. The main point is that clutch sees much less wear and were capable of running a very high gear ratio without the gaint axel sprockets.
When I started karting, (1966) the 100 CC Komet and the 135 CC B bomb all had clutch's mounted on extension shafts on the ignition side.What clutch are you hoping to use that can withstand the rpm and power of a reed when direct mount to crank.