Track Tac

just a question

J

jcm900

New member
Say you are runing a clone at 350 you run in the top 4 on a 1\8 flat track
Your gear is a 14\70 rpm are good on the track you have to get out of gas going into
The corner and your out of the gas just past the apex would you try and go to say
A 13\65 if so what is the good and bad with trying this
 
You say RPM's are good I assume you have a tach to confirm that ? If so what RPM are you at ? to run a 14/70 on a Clone If indeed RPM's are correct you must be out of the throttle a bunch for tight turns and there must be NO bite in the track at all, or your way off on Tires, more normal conditions a 14/64 would be considered being high on rear gear.
If you are running a Tach what are your drops ?
 
yes the rpm are at 6550 to 6600 yes out of throttle a lot and it has no bite at all it is about a 1000 rpm drops
 
Where do you feel your getting beat off the turn or end of the straight ? reguardless I think your some what gear bound and would be better on a 14/68 might even drop it to a 67 come feature time just to confirm.
 
13/65 = 5.0 – 1
14/70 = 5.0 – 1
some say there is a difference, depending on track conditions, but that's a different argument. If it truly is a 1/8 mile track, that seems like a awfully low gear ratio. A true 1/8 mile track is kinda big!

Any chance of you telling us how far it is between the straights. If the turns are as tight as you describe, the straights must be pretty long.
 
sounds like a long, but very tight track....says he's out of the gas past the apex of the corner...that's probably where he's getting beat at....like a rocket down the straight, but has to get off the gas way too soon and can't get back on it where he needs to. needs to be rolling back into the throttle before the apex and WOT coming out of the corner. I agree with racing promoter....go to a 14/68 to start and see where your at.....
 
With a 15 driver we could not hit anywhere close to our RPMs. when we did run a 14/65 we were out getting destroyed and still to low on our RPMs. that's when we jumped to a 14/70 and are just getting to our ideal RPMs and coming back to the field. I don't think that us getting out of the throttle on the turn into the apex is because of gear ratio, I think that is just the way the track is. most other drivers out there I can hear getting out of the throttle before we do and still coasting into the apex.
 
Doesn't sound so bad. 14:68 is typical gearing on a similar 1/8 mile track we've been to. Going to the 13 driver should help you a tiny bit (acceleration) off of the corner (since you are out of the throttle so long.) Experimenting with trail braking at all? Could it be that your corner drop rpms are below the clutch stall and thus disengaging the clutch...the ensuing clutch engagement could be slipping acceleration away while others have kept their clutches locked up? Just thinking out loud here.



-----
Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
26 years of service to the karting industry
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
Im not to sure on the length of the straits, I will say based off other tracks I have driven they do not seem very long. trail braking is something I tend to do, but for equipment purposes I would prefer to get away from it... do you think that a 13/65 could help me with that problem without losing to much on the field or do you believe it would put me in the dust?
 
Brian mentioned going to a 13. Doing that may be just what you need. Dropping the front to the 13 while keeping the rear at the 65 you had with the 14 will put you closer to your target rpm. Should get you close enough to tweak from there. Sometimes you just have to over look the actual size of the track and run the gear the track wants or allows.

We have two local tracks down here that run almost identical gearing to one another. 14/62-64ish. One is a 1/7 mile plain ole dirt track and low bite and you lift on entry but back on it right before apex. The other is a 1/10 mile red clay with lots of bite and on a good night you never lift.
 
CarlsonMotorsports said:
Doesn't sound so bad. 14:68 is typical gearing on a similar 1/8 mile track we've been to. Going to the 13 driver should help you a tiny bit (acceleration) off of the corner (since you are out of the throttle so long.) Experimenting with trail braking at all? Could it be that your corner drop rpms are below the clutch stall and thus disengaging the clutch...the ensuing clutch engagement could be slipping acceleration away while others have kept their clutches locked up? Just thinking out loud here.



-----
Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
26 years of service to the karting industry
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
Click to expand...

Great point here I'd be confirming his thinking out loud, I think you have some little issue holding back RPM's other than the gearing.
 
rebsfan4 said:
Brian mentioned going to a 13. Doing that may be just what you need. Dropping the front to the 13 while keeping the rear at the 65 you had with the 14 will put you closer to your target rpm. Should get you close enough to tweak from there. Sometimes you just have to over look the actual size of the track and run the gear the track wants or allows.

We have two local tracks down here that run almost identical gearing to one another. 14/62-64ish. One is a 1/7 mile plain ole dirt track and low bite and you lift on entry but back on it right before apex. The other is a 1/10 mile red clay with lots of bite and on a good night you never lift.
Click to expand...

Agreed 100 % I would try the 13 driver in a heart beat, the clones tend to like rear gears on the smaller side anyway.

Good Luck !!
 
Not knowing the actual size of the track, or the radius of the turns, makes it hard to say what gearing is good and what gearing is bad, but one tooth on the driver is equal to 5 teeth on the driven, in that gear range. You would need almost a 500 RPM increase on the top to be going the same speed at the end of the straight.
 
alvin l nunley said:
Not knowing the actual size of the track, or the radius of the turns, makes it hard to say what gearing is good and what gearing is bad, but one tooth on the driver is equal to 5 teeth on the driven, in that gear range. You would need almost a 500 RPM increase on the top to be going the same speed at the end of the straight.
Click to expand...

With the 14/65 he says he's about 500-600 short of his target RPM range. Dropping to the 13 on the front while keeping the 65 on the back will just about coincide with the extra rpm you mention as being needed. Get him pretty close.
 
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