KT100 Can to Pipe

M

MFK

New member
I have a KT100 engine with a 4 hole can and the track I want to race at requires a RLV-3 Pipe.
What changes are needed to my current engine to run the RLV-3 Pipe? I was told all I need to do is change the spark plug and I will be fine. I know the engines are built accordingly to what style exhaust so down the road I will have one rebuilt but for now I just need some seat time.
 
It of course would depend on where your engine is now. Check the CC’s. Check the deck height. (Just something I do) Check the squish. Check the exhaust port height. Check the piston port height.
Now all these things, depending on who you talk to, can vary. I once had a builder tell me that the exhaust ports should be lower for a can motor. We tested it on my dyno and I proved to him that he was mistaken.
I can’t give you any real recommendations because I have never tested that pipe. I did have a Horstman HPV with the pipe they originally came with, a pipe very much like you’re going to use and that engine was right at the Max, or minimum, specs.
I’m pretty sure you’re going to get a lot of different opinions. Pick and choose, test test test.
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory.
 
Thanks for responding Alvin. I know there a lot of factors when building engine but is it ok to run a pipe on engine built for a can or will it cause any damage to the engine.
 
change clutch engagement as well it should engage allot later then a can(inless your talking about a spec pipe) I believe that pipe the pipe you are talking about is the RLV L3 or A3 RLV has a chart on recomnded clutch engagement
 
MFK said:
Thanks for responding Alvin. I know there a lot of factors when building engine but is it ok to run a pipe on engine built for a can or will it cause any damage to the engine.
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there is nothing in the engine that really needs to be changed if you're satisfied with the performance. Make sure the header length is right and the clutch is slipping at the right RPM. An excessively short header can cause the engine to leaning out and of course you want the clutch to be slipping at peak torque. I've seen where they have clutch engagement rules, so you want to take that into consideration.
 
Slap it on with the correct header and recommeneded (if it's not spec) flex length. You will be fine.
The RLV-3 is a newer sprint pipe designed to replace the 4 hole can. It causes lots of confusion but it's not the L3 or A3.
 
Engine builder told me a can was setup with a little tighter squish. because it turns less rpm.
so if it starts turning more than usual, you may want to increase the head gasket thickness .005-.010 .
 
Connecting rod might also be an issue. Yamahama uses two different rods. The lighter rod stretches more than the heavier rod.

On motors I've built, I always used the heavier rod because it doesn't stretch as much and the lower end stays rounder longer.

John
 
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