KT100 exhaust

Outlaw26

Outlaw26

Member
Question…..if rules were to permit, what’s the reasoning why a KT100 exhaust, could not use a regular 2-stroke silencer, like a shifter kart? Any performance advantages or disadvantages?
 
Thats what the can does .
Whats your end game , the neighbors complaining?
Direct too the stinger would quiet it down ,sized properly should be minimal power loss
 
Ted Hamilton said:
KT "CAN" exhaust do NOT work like a tuned pipe. Or, more accurately, they work like an inefficient but cheap spec pipe. For a real tuned pipe, the angle of the cone affects the speed and spread of the sound wave that pushes the premix back into the cylinder instead of letting it escape the exhaust port during transfer. Heat affects the return (and exit) speed. A longer flex delays (shifts) the collision packing point, shorter does the reverse. More heat speeds up the wave. Some swear by the wet line. The only reason a dirtbike pipe is curved instead of straight like a KT is because it has to wrap back around behind the engine and be packaged into something that fits the available space without interfering with the rider. KT engines use tuned pipes that work just like the dirtbike pipe all the time... Buller or RLV can make you a custom one if you can't find one to fit your application, or a local TiG guy can also.
https://www.prestwich.ndirect.co.uk/tunedpipetheory.htm
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I have an old tuned pipe that I got years ago. Someone modified it with a really long can and fixed flex length. I was going to try this pipe on my KT100 in a limited/mod class, against alky predators, on an 1/8 mile oval. Im a Tig welder fabricator so my plan was to remove the long can that was added, modify the stinger, with an MX style shorty silencer. Then I was going to fabricate an adjustable flex. I like building, modifying and experimenting with stuff. Thoughts? I can post a pic of the pipe when I get home.
 
Good luck will be hit or miss . If you're new to the kt100 error on the longer side for flex to short and you might not have time to figure it out later Chuck.
 
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flattop1 said:
Thats what the can does .
Whats your end game , the neighbors complaining?
Direct too the stinger would quiet it down ,sized properly should be minimal power loss
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I explained a little down below. This for a dirt oval kart that I’m going to race in a limited/mod predator class, that allows KT100’s.
 
Here’s the pipe I have….it had a really long can that someone put on. I cut it off. I’d like to add a u bend on the stinger, with a 2-stroke silencer. Then build a new manifold, with an adjustable flex.
 

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Yes, you're going to need some kind of flexible connection to the engine or it will just break off. Also, you'll have to put something on that stinger, they won't let you run it like that unless there's no safety tech at your track. Minimum would be a large flat washer on the end of it. The over-can you cut off is the usual protector and muffler. There should be a number/letter on it like L2 or A4 or G3 or something to tell you the era and rpm range it was designed for. That pipe seems rather short at the header end the way it sits. I would look for the specs of an RLV L2 pipe for comparison. If you're trying to quiet it down you can get an RLV airbox for the carb that will reduce allot of noise.

Sundog
 
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sundog said:
Yes, you're going to need some kind of flexible connection to the engine or it will just break off. Also, you'll have to put something on that stinger, they won't let you run it like that unless there's no safety tech at your track. Minimum would be a large flat washer on the end of it. The over-can you cut off is the usual protector and muffler. There should be a number/letter on it like L2 or A4 or G3 or something to tell you the era and rpm range it was designed for. That pipe seems rather short at the header end the way it sits. I would look for the specs of an RLV L2 pipe for comparison. If you're trying to quiet it down you can get an RLV airbox for the carb that will reduce allot of noise.

Sundog
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sundog said:
Yes, you're going to need some kind of flexible connection to the engine or it will just break off. Also, you'll have to put something on that stinger, they won't let you run it like that unless there's no safety tech at your track. Minimum would be a large flat washer on the end of it. The over-can you cut off is the usual protector and muffler. There should be a number/letter on it like L2 or A4 or G3 or something to tell you the era and rpm range it was designed for. That pipe seems rather short at the header end the way it sits. I would look for the specs of an RLV L2 pipe for comparison. If you're trying to quiet it down you can get an RLV airbox for the carb that will reduce allot of noise.

Sundog
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I’ll be adding a silencer like this. I’ll weld a u-bend onto the end of the stinger. I’d never consider running it open, like it sits. I will be making a new manifold that has the ability to adjust and experiment with the flex length. There’s no numbers on the can. Like I said up top, someone put on their own can that was extremely long. I just cut that off. It was not the stock can.
 
sundog said:
Yes, you're going to need some kind of flexible connection to the engine or it will just break off. Also, you'll have to put something on that stinger, they won't let you run it like that unless there's no safety tech at your track. Minimum would be a large flat washer on the end of it. The over-can you cut off is the usual protector and muffler. There should be a number/letter on it like L2 or A4 or G3 or something to tell you the era and rpm range it was designed for. That pipe seems rather short at the header end the way it sits. I would look for the specs of an RLV L2 pipe for comparison. If you're trying to quiet it down you can get an RLV airbox for the carb that will reduce allot of noise.

Sundog
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And I’m not really trying to quiet it down per say, other than adding the silencer I mentioned. The K&N air cleaner will be fine, as far as noise is concerned. I’m more interested in performance advantages.
 
I went ahead and built a manifold and flex, along with modifying the stinger and welding on a can off of a DD87. I guess we’ll see how it works. If it works good, it’s a bonus, if not, I’ll try something else.
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StaggerDog said:
What`s the measurement on your flex? Looks a little long.
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Clutch is set at 10k. Pulled hard from 10-14.5k, good over rev to 15+, when we tested yesterday. Going to run it like it is and go from there. We’ll find out this weekend.
 
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