limited build

Well , a few things, one is you need to weld under the case bearing boss to reinforce it, it will crack under the load put on it by a Limited. Put an old bearing in the case and weld a bridge from the underside of the boss to the case, that will take care of that issue. As far as the lifter area, your gonna be cutting some of that weld off as you clearance the lifter gallery because of the high lift cam. With Limited's it's all about making room for parts to turn without running into each other. It's really nice to have a sidecover with windows or a tool made for the job so you can see what's hitting what. Cam can hit the crank, some rods will hit the cam, sometimes the rod will hit the bottom of the block, now you get the idea. Of course you need to build a head with valve reliefs to clear the mega lift cam while leaving .005 to .010 relief over the piston area, and a high flow port job befitting a Limited build while not getting the port out of tec because of being too big at the port opening or hitting the seat. Once you decide on piston and rod combo, you can deck the top to work with your gasket package to give you the desired deck height. You will also want to cut the top of the spring gallery to get it flat so the springs will set well. Jon
 
Yea, I actually preferred to build bigger HP engines with the single bearing cranks for the exact reason that Jon gave (having to reinforce the bearing pocket on the flywheel side.)

Build that dude up.

Seems a lot of people are building flathead limiteds here over the last couple years -- kinda nice to reminisce. :)

If I can help you with anything,
give me a shout.

-----
Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cuts
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Celebrating 25 years of service to the karting industry
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
He already got one, is what he's saying, ske. Neither you nor I could match the price he gave for it either.
I'm thinking you would have bought it too. :)
 
That 368 has been re-shaped in front of the venturi, that's why it broke out into the bolt holes like it did and has that step down close to the nozzle. It may have been built by Checkered Flag racing at some point, they used to do some that way. The point was to increase fuel signal for the high side circuit while using almost no high side nozzle, I can't really say it was any worse than the shape engineered by EC and Tillotson , evidently they (Checkered Flag) liked it. But I prefer the radiused venturi shape because of it's better airflow , either way the differences are fairly small, and with the right drill pattern, arm height and pop-off it's a matter of figuring out what it likes for needle setting's. Jon
 
Your first one will have a bit of a learning curve involved, but it won't be too bad, especially with a little guidance. Make sure your fulcrum arm height is .065 below the bare body where the demand diaphragm sets and pop-off pressure is 8 to 9 lbs. Start with your low side needle at 1 1/2 turns out, high side about 3/4. Limited's need to be set up rich off the bottom to get them to transition from the low side to the high and pull hard thru the middle, so they will be very rich at idle, so rich that you don't want to set and idle for long. EGT is so low it won't build much engine heat anyway, and you may even put some alky in the oil. If you get a bog when you hit the throttle first thing to do is open the low side some, until you get good response. Then run several laps trimming the high side to set head temp about 400 degrees, that will insure the engine is lean enough on top to make good top end power. Give it a good run, if you have any problems or questions about it shoot me a message and I'll help you with it. Jon
 
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