Box Stock

low tension rings

Have a steel sleeve machined with a step/ledge to square the ring against. Place the ring in the sleeve, heat the ring cherry red, then submerse the entire assembly in your quench to avoid contamination.

Or you can call a kart shop or engine builder and order the rings you want.


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Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
28 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
What are you submersing the ring in? I was also told by a engine builder not to get the rings cherry red because they likely will not seal up. I also called dyno about getting some,rings done the size I needed and they said they won't do anything like that for just a set or 2 you have to order like 20 sets of rings minimum.
 
Anything that displaces air. Most use a fine sand or glassbeads.
You can also use oil, or water. Just be very careful if you are using liquids as the shock of temp differences can cause fluids to splash/steam.

I would not be taking the compression ring and getting it red hot. I focus on scraper/oil rings when de-tensioning.
Keep in mind that I don't do much with clones or predators at all -- I don't know what availability there is for those engines.
If there is not enough demand for predator low tension ring sets, then yea, you won't find them as easily.
Depending on what they charge, it might still be better/cheaper to order 20 sets than to have a stepped sleeve/cylinder machined to make your own.
 
There is up to .015 over low tension rings for clone available but there are hardly anything for predator available. I know Dover had some sleeves made to de tension your own rings that's the route I will be going just didn't know what you were submersing them in and if it was just the ring or the entire sleeve.
 
cant get them for a predator, heck you cant even get over size rings, it seems like some one would have rings for the predator because they sure are popular right now
 
That is true! I believe arc or b&m had some at one point or at least advertised them but we're always out of stock to order them
 
Just use an old block... Set ur rings in, use the piston to square out and use a torch, or if u have an old motor just use the old oil rings/bottom ring
 
You can clip the oil ring expander also. The torch in block works to but just takes a long while to do heating evenly across the ring. You can also use a oven.
 
Be aware that sometimes the rings will twist slightlyfrom heating even when using a block or sleeve...can't hardly see it with the naked eye but when you run one and remove it from the piston it will show signs of uneven ware..
 
I'd much rather dip a ring in oil than water for quenching...water can make the steel brittle if not done just right, then you risk breaking rings
 
The piston rings being steel and cast iron should not be quenched period in oil or water, quenching from high temperature cause the material to harden. Hardened material does not have ductility, ability to flex. A hardened ring will most likely snap when being installed. The process needed to remove the tension will be annealing which is a slow controlled cooling.

Liquid used to quench is determined by the material and the end result desired, materials that are quenched become hardened, they now need to be tempered. I don't suggest quenching yourpiston rings.
 
I agree kart43...simple heat then air cool has worked best for me. I have heard of guys quenching them in water and just the thought of that is crazy to me, like you say they can just snap anytime...not what you want in a piston ring. I believe oil would more or less heat treat the ring and not be as likely to break as with water but i could be wrong
 
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