Ive got a predator 212 and I'm fixing to put 10.8lb springs in it and I've watched you tube videos on how to install...one guy pulls the head off and one guy doesn't...I can install springs without a tool but when I take the spring off will the valve fall down in the head or not..I know to put it at top dead on each spring removal and tighten it down to .003 but just don't want to take head off...so will they fall down ?....
need help with valve springs on predator
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youngengines
Member
I use air (compression gauge fitting). The valve cant fall in if the piston is at TDC.
sCREamnClones
New member
Leak-down tester works great as well, but a .25 cent piece of rope works just 'as good' as a $700 L/D tester ans a $3000 air-compressor! 
Leak-down tester works great as well, but a .25 cent piece of rope works just 'as good' as a $700 L/D tester ans a $3000 air-compressor!
If your paying $3000 for an air compressor, and $700 for a leak down tester, everything must be X3 or more on the price in Cali lol. Can get a good decent leak down tester for $100 or less some places, no more than $200, and a good air compressor for about the same price! Just saved you $3000+ right there, and can ship it to ya from Ky
Rope trick works perfect, air trick works great too. I usually dont have to do either one, just pop off the retainer and change springs, being careful not to push down on the valve when putting the retainer back on. After a few times doing it, you can get to where its easy to do without rope or air, just using your hands. With piston at TDC, you cant drop a valve in the cylender anyways, if the valve does go down at all, its only 2mm or so, and you can pull it back up with your fingers. If you have good oil seals, they usually hold the valve in place to keep it from falling down in the cylender any unless your pushing on the valve.
sCREamnClones
New member
If your paying $3000 for an air compressor, and $700 for a leak down tester, everything must be X3 or more on the price in Cali lol. Can get a good decent leak down tester for $100 or less some places, no more than $200, and a good air compressor for about the same price! Just saved you $3000+ right there, and can ship it to ya from Ky
Nah....These were purchased for 'real' racing several years ago (Drag Racing) and they work well on lawn-mowers too...LOL! (If you don't 'have' the Best....you 'can't' be the Best!)
Note: I DID buy a $30 LD Gauge but I didn't like what it told me...
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Springs are just gonna help you turn more rpm as you increase spring pressure, the added rpm is what helps you make more power. With 10.8lb springs, there is basically a point where the spring maxes out, no matter what brand 10.8 spring you use. Some just hold their tension longer than others. Iv had good luck with Dover's Rev Pro 10.8lb Red springs, they have lasted for 10 or more races if i always turn the engine back to TDC when i come off the track and shut it off. If you do that, you can make any good 10.8 spring last longer
Sleeper/54
New member
For a quick change a buddy showed me how to use a allen wrench to hold up the valve .... put short end in the spark plug hole and aim under the valve your working on. Just watch you don't drop the lash cap off the exhaust valve into the engine. If you do a magnet and some luck may retrieve it without pulling the engine apart
M.D.racing
New member
With the predator rtc6 and rtc8 automotive style retainers the rope trick makes it easier. Helping several in a sealed predator class turning 5600 to 5800 rpm. You will see better lap times from stopping some valve flutter and float..Take Care