A dingle ball hone isn't going to make anything round if it's not round to begin with.
You need a 4 jawed machinist's hone. Like this one with the correct size range for the stones.
They're expensive, but the bore will be round and straight when used correctly with a torque plate. There are other brands and you can get them cheaper at different places.
https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/engine-cylinder-hone
Hope it runs good for you. Let us know if you need it honed or anything.bob I know the Dingle ball hones won’t make it round. I’m hoping with only a couple races it isn’t too far out. I just wanted to break the glaze and clean up those marks before reassembly. If it does it again I’ll pull it down and send it off.
Hope it runs good for you. Let us know if you need it honed or anything.
Yea, compression is good! All seems OK with it. I'll know more after this weekend.If it still has the same compression none of this matters. Run it.
No sir, that is what I found very odd. No mark on the skirt. I did however, find the top ring slightly "stuck" in the groove and didn't seem to rotate as well as the second and third ring. I pulled it out and lapped both sides of it and then went over the entire ring with some sotchbrite to make sure all was smooth. It rotates normally in the groove now and seems to run very well on the stand.Was there a spot on the skirt that coincides with the bore spot? I myself tend to think like others that the bore tweaks up a bit when torqued. These are mass produced the cheapest way possible... there’s bound to be some core shift in those blocks.