Track Tac

Powder coating removal?

I do sand-blasting and unless you hold the blaster right on top of it, it should be fine. We usually use coal slag and have done late model frames. Yes, it does leave small pits, but that shouldnt hurt the integrity of it. Unless youve tested theory, I wouldnt knock it. If you have though, let me know. Anyways, just take a DA and sand the frame after its blasted to make a smooth finish.
 
Vintagequest said:
Strange too.... If blasting is sooooo bad for a frame, why would my 40 year old vintage twin enduro that I've sand blasted bare a half a dozen times since new, not had ANY issues whatsoever? Sometimes I feel folks jump on a bandwagon that theorizes a bit too deep.
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You are probably right. Myself have little experience is this area and wanted to play it safe.
 
Had a customer in the same or similar position. Powder coating done right is very hard to remove. He had it blasted with pecan hulls. No marks or any evidence of powder/paint removal. Recleared it, and honestly It looked better than before. Just a suggestion worth looking in to. Good Luck.
 
When I remove powder coat on chassis, I'll put on a thick coat of stripper and let it set for a few minutes. The paint will generally wrinkle up and come of fairly easy. If you sand blast the chassis, be sure you have someone who knows what they are doing. Never use new sand. If you're going to sand blast it, always use old sand and don't get too close or stay in one spot too long. What i usually do is after the stripper is cleaned off, I'll blast the heavier spots with walnut or old sand. As for around the welds, I'll use the propane torch to "flash" the welds and use a wire brush to clean them up. If you are going to leave it bare for a while before powder coating, put a light coat of WD-40 on it. It will get washed off when the powder coater does a phosfate rinse. Good luck.

Side note: When applying stripper, don't keep brushing it on. Just dab it on and let it set. The more you work it, the more it releases the chemical that makes it work. Don't over work it.
 
i put my pice back in the oven let i touch 400 degrees blastcwhilexstill hot repeat hellva mess or run itvfor a tripple cure cycle (400 degrees for an hr or so) all these are going to wreck a chassis . my suggestion is sand it smooth prime with an etching primer and paint with urathane . also i have changed colors rightvover each other just turn the voltage way down use a little heat to bond during spray.dont think its the blasting more the heat cycles on the tubeing making hArd zpots ,
 
How does heat wreck a chassis when the powder coat is cooked on for extended periods of time ? Not saying make it cherry red but when I powder coat some call for 350 and some for 400. You're not going to "wreck" your chassis from heat like that.

If I get the inclination to remove powdercoat, which I don't normally do because of the process, I use a wire wheel on the handheld grinder, then hit it with aircraft stripper, rinse, then finish with the wire wheel. It's a painstaking process so now I paint my chassis knowing I will spend far less time redoing it in the winter.

-Shannon
 
metal is tempered way above 400*F, typically at work we will temper to 1600 to soften steel, powdercoating should in no way effect the integrity of a chassis. If it is heated up too much when baking the old powdercoating off then it certainly could meet those temps but someone who is good wont make this mistake!
 
Aircraft stripper or a another stripper called B-17
....B-17 works alot better but kinda hard to find it will strip a freshly coated peace in about 5mins
..Columbia coatings where I get my powder sells B-17....an the wire wheel on a grinder works good to I think someone suggested it
 
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