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predator 212 hemi mod help

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vividdc5

New member
New to karting and small engines and i just bought a predator 212 hemi (#60363) and was wanting to get some input on my plans for it

- 6626 ARC Kohler CH270/New Predator 212 Billet Flywheel $100
-Upgraded Predator Air Filter Kit $41
-header with gasket unsure on type
-140 emulsion tube and a .37 jet

what spark plug do you guys recommend running in the predator, and what would be a good clutch to go with this is a dirt road, semi offroad go kart. thanks in advance for the input
 
Autolite 3910X spark plug. If its just an offroad or fun kart, Hilliard makes an Extreme Duty clutch specifically for that purpose, for fun karts. Or you can spend a few more bucks for a good Hilliard Fury, Flame or Blaze if you want a good dependable clutch that will last. No need to spend alot of money on a disc clutch if you arent racing it. Also, advance your timing a little bit, and put a MOD2 cam and 26lb white stripe valve springs from dyno cams in it, you wont be dissappointed and will have alot of fun with that engine.
 
Weddle Racing said:
Autolite 3910X spark plug. If its just an offroad or fun kart, Hilliard makes an Extreme Duty clutch specifically for that purpose, for fun karts. Or you can spend a few more bucks for a good Hilliard Fury, Flame or Blaze if you want a good dependable clutch that will last. No need to spend alot of money on a disc clutch if you arent racing it. Also, advance your timing a little bit, and put a MOD2 cam and 26lb white stripe valve springs from dyno cams in it, you wont be dissappointed and will have alot of fun with that engine.
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the arc flywheel has a 8 degrees timing advance built into the keyway, and if i leave the governor in for now and put only the mods i have listed will i see decent gains, and when installing the intake just leave the hose from the tank that goes in the stock breather out, and the one in the valve cover just add a cheap filter to it?
 
You will see some gains from what you have listed, they wont be huge gains if your leaving the governor installed, but they will be an improvement. If your getting the billet flywheel, why not remove the governor? There really is no need for the billet flywheel if you are leaving the governor installed. The vent hose from the stock tank, you can remove that vent hose and put a cap over the vent on the tank, and either drill a couple of small 1/16" holes in the stock fuel cap or get a vented fuel cap for the tank and you will be fine. Most just drill a couple holes in the stock fuel cap. For the one in the valve cover, you can run a hose from the valve cover to a homemade catch can and it will work good that way, just run a hose from the valve cover into a pop bottle or one of those energy drink cans that are made out of metal, with a screw on lid, they work great. Just make sure that you also run another hose out of the catch can and put a breather on that hose. So you basically want 2 hoses coming out of the catch can, one going to the stock hole on the valve cover, and the other one can be a short hose with just a filter on it. I have used the metal 12oz energy drink cans with the metal lid before, they work good if you punch one hole in the middle of the lid and run your valve cover hose into that hole, then punch another hole in the side of it at the top next to the lid, and run your vent hose out of that one with the small filter attatched. You need a filter on it for sure, the vaccum from the engine will pull air back in the vent hose. If your keeping the engine mostly stock, you could probably just use a short hose from your valve cover and put a small filter on it, but the catch can is a much better idea in case something happens to cause you to push oil out of the engine thru the vent hose. I have seen some people remove the stock tank from the engine and install it on the kart, using a fuel pump to get the fuel from the tank to the engine, that works pretty good, but if you can mount the tank somewhere that it is a little higher than the engine, you wouldnt even need a fuel pump, gravity will get the fuel to the engine. I just dont trust the stock tank being that close to me on a kart, although iv never seen one catch fire either.
 
Weddle Racing said:
You will see some gains from what you have listed, they wont be huge gains if your leaving the governor installed, but they will be an improvement. If your getting the billet flywheel, why not remove the governor? There really is no need for the billet flywheel if you are leaving the governor installed. The vent hose from the stock tank, you can remove that vent hose and put a cap over the vent on the tank, and either drill a couple of small 1/16" holes in the stock fuel cap or get a vented fuel cap for the tank and you will be fine. Most just drill a couple holes in the stock fuel cap. For the one in the valve cover, you can run a hose from the valve cover to a homemade catch can and it will work good that way, just run a hose from the valve cover into a pop bottle or one of those energy drink cans that are made out of metal, with a screw on lid, they work great. Just make sure that you also run another hose out of the catch can and put a breather on that hose. So you basically want 2 hoses coming out of the catch can, one going to the stock hole on the valve cover, and the other one can be a short hose with just a filter on it. I have used the metal 12oz energy drink cans with the metal lid before, they work good if you punch one hole in the middle of the lid and run your valve cover hose into that hole, then punch another hole in the side of it at the top next to the lid, and run your vent hose out of that one with the small filter attatched. You need a filter on it for sure, the vaccum from the engine will pull air back in the vent hose. If your keeping the engine mostly stock, you could probably just use a short hose from your valve cover and put a small filter on it, but the catch can is a much better idea in case something happens to cause you to push oil out of the engine thru the vent hose. I have seen some people remove the stock tank from the engine and install it on the kart, using a fuel pump to get the fuel from the tank to the engine, that works pretty good, but if you can mount the tank somewhere that it is a little higher than the engine, you wouldnt even need a fuel pump, gravity will get the fuel to the engine. I just dont trust the stock tank being that close to me on a kart, although iv never seen one catch fire either.
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I appreciate the help, so if I do remove the governor and go with what's listed it would show significantly more gains, or is that to hard on the stock cam, valve springs, etc.
 
vividdc5 said:
I appreciate the help, so if I do remove the governor and go with what's listed it would show significantly more gains, or is that to hard on the stock cam, valve springs, etc.
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You should be alright with no governor. Just treat it like you would treat your regular car; it doesn't have a governor. You don't stick it on 9,000 rpm and leave it there, don't do that to your kart either. It'll live.
 
cubicinches said:
You should be alright with no governor. Just treat it like you would treat your regular car; it doesn't have a governor. You don't stick it on 9,000 rpm and leave it there, don't do that to your kart either. It'll live.
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Haha makes sense, thanks!! What brand oil also is good to run through it synthetic or non synthetic, thinking about running 5w30 or 10w30 mobil 1 full synthetic. Thoughts?
 
vividdc5 said:
Haha makes sense, thanks!! What brand oil also is good to run through it synthetic or non synthetic, thinking about running 5w30 or 10w30 mobil 1 full synthetic. Thoughts?
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I've always run 5w30 Mobil 1 in all my kart engines. It's personal preference really.
 
There is 'alot' of info on 'oil' on this sight....do some investigating! Regardless of what 'Brand' you select, be sure it is a 'Racing' oil and Not simply 'Automotive passenger car' approved. Off-the-shelf Mobil 1 is No-longer favored by many here on Bob's....jst say'n
 
+1 with scream2. I have the remains of two engines that were full of mobil-1. This stuff is way too short on the zinc these engines need.
Get an SG rated oil from a motorcycle shop if you have one local. I've been having good luck with the Maxima 4T Synth blend.
 
rkcarguy said:
+1 with scream2. I have the remains of two engines that were full of mobil-1. This stuff is way too short on the zinc these engines need.
Get an SG rated oil from a motorcycle shop if you have one local. I've been having good luck with the Maxima 4T Synth blend.
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Alright yea I have a couple shops local I can check out on that.
 
Yard kart?
I'd be concerned that if you get in a wide open area you may over-rev and float the valves(which over time will chew up the valvetrain) or break the stock conn rod.
I think I'd try to tweak the governor linkage for increased RPM in that application but leave it in place.
 
rkcarguy said:
Yard kart?
I'd be concerned that if you get in a wide open area you may over-rev and float the valves(which over time will chew up the valvetrain) or break the stock conn rod.
I think I'd try to tweak the governor linkage for increased RPM in that application but leave it in place.
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What would you do to tweak the governor linkage for higher Rpms?
 
rkcarguy said:
Yard kart?
I'd be concerned that if you get in a wide open area you may over-rev and float the valves(which over time will chew up the valvetrain) or break the stock conn rod.
I think I'd try to tweak the governor linkage for increased RPM in that application but leave it in place.
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Unless clones are a lot weaker, I had a 100% stock raptor on a kart that I ran around in the yard with, down the street, in parking lots for close to ten years, and never had any excessive wear on the valvetrain or rotating assembly. Based on my experience, stock engines are very stable in their stock state. And that sounds like the way he wants it.
 
cubicinches said:
Unless clones are a lot weaker, I had a 100% stock raptor on a kart that I ran around in the yard with, down the street, in parking lots for close to ten years, and never had any excessive wear on the valvetrain or rotating assembly. Based on my experience, stock engines are very stable in their stock state. And that sounds like the way he wants it.
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What part of Arkansas you in? I'm in northwest arkansas.
And yea just want some more overall power torque without getting all the way into cams, rods, etc.
 
everything that everyone is saying is good, but I have to ask what are you using the kart for? running around the neighborhood and having a little street fun is one thing...a stock predator with no modifications would be fine for this...if your taking it on the track, then several mods would have to be done to give you longevity and improvements.

one...low oil pressure and governor removal...for messin around home...leave it alone. if your racing, get rid of them, google "predator governor removal" for a vid on how.
two...rod...depending on your use, a billet rod would be the best for racing....but if your racing, the rules may prohibit it's use.
three....cam....stock cam is fine with stock lifters, pushrods, springs, etc.., for playin around....but if you upgrade for serious racing, then you need to look at new springs, chrome moly pushrods, higher lift/longer duration cam....and everything has to be kept inline to get the best possible power.
four....carb....what you want is to set the carb to go along with the improvements that you do...with more improvements, your engine is going to want to breath more...so you have to look at the etube, the jets, the air filter...all of it so that you don't fuel starve the motor.
five...oil...ready everything on bob's on the different oils and what others say and then make your won mind up.
six....don't forget to get a big box of fun...

you may be thinking "I know this already" and I don't want to sound condescending or that you don't know. just want to help!!
 
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