Project CHEAPSKATE Part II - Setup and Testing

Ted Hamilton

Ted Hamilton

Helmet Painter / Racer
-- PREFACE --

Thanks for all the views and support on the last thread. To keep it from becoming too long, and to separate things topically, I've started this thread. I'll button up the last of the build in the next day or so, but the only remaining things before running it are setup, double-checking tightness and positioning, and graphics... I am slowly learning to make it fast, THEN pretty. :) IMO, this kart is already looking fast, but testing will tell.

Stay tuned to this thread....for DAY 1, we're going to lay out 4 bathroom scales on the cement floor and use vinyl flooring tiles to make them all level. Then we're going to "zero" them by using a 5# weight and setting all the scales to read 5# on the display when the weight is placed on them. From there, we'll place the kart and driver on the scales and take a "baseline" reading. This will give us a preliminary set of figures to work from, and we'll adjust spindle and rear end heights to get our proper recommended numbers. Speaking of which, ULTRAMAX lists the setup numbers for all their karts on their website, so be sure and check it out if you're running a UMAX...http://www.ultramaxracing.com/owners0.shtml#start

From there, we'll look at stagger and tire offsets and toe-in settings, and finally, check for driver comfort and positioning issues. We may even get into customizing seat padding, etc. too... anything for the viewers! :) If there's anything specific you want more information on or a topic you'd like to see covered photographically during setup / testing, please let me know and I'll see what I can do.

STAY TUNED!!

One more beauty shot to see where we're starting from:

10612974_10100529372609889_6782364012954636159_n.jpg
 
Just a guess, but I would tests the scales with a heavier weight.
After getting the scales to what you think is level, weigh the kart, write down the weights and then turn the kart a 180 degrees and see if you get the same numbers.

You sure have done a good job on this series of posts and the kart.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
 
Thanks, Al... I'll give that a try! Either 10 lbs., or I know my own weight is almost spot on at 160, so I may calibrate to that... scales are a bit like dynos -- everyone's is different and the track is too, so as long as they're the same and consistent, the raw numbers just have to be "close". At least for us Cheapskates. :)
 
If not using calibrated, or kart scales, i would calibrate with differing weights, up to including the toga; kart weight, the best you can hope for is repeatability, i would not flip the kart around, if one or more scales are off 1% at 360#'s, your looking at 3.6 #'s... if this happens at one corner or the other you can get some skewed #'s... but it's ok, like a dyno as long as you do it the same way every time..

Initial steps.. I would suggest scaling kart, getting baseline setup, do not touch or move scales, test kart, readjust, rescale to obtain #'s... take scales to track to verify repeatability, repeat first steps, as you did at home... the key to scaling is too have repeatability,

I haven't had to add weight in years, however when I did, I scaled kart, and made adjustments, with kart settings, then used flat lead sheet, hammered into seat, and then taped, and screwed in if required, this keeps the vcg, and kart balance the same., its kinda hard to separate 15 #'s or so equally to the 4 corners of the kart.. I have never had a kart whether setting up for 350#'s or 430#'s, i couldn't get the weight right by adjusting kart, rather than adding weight,.
 
Frankie -- thanks for the offer. Actually, what I have planned is to set it up and scale it "the cheap way", then do it on digital scales and see what the difference is, if any. That will give the Cheapskates some clue of how possible it is to get accurate results affordably.
 
Ted, if you would have told me I would have taken my kart scales last weekend and we could have met to scale your kart. Looking good there.
 
Ted Hamilton said:
Thanks, Al... I'll give that a try! Either 10 lbs., or I know my own weight is almost spot on at 160, so I may calibrate to that... scales are a bit like dynos -- everyone's is different and the track is too, so as long as they're the same and consistent, the raw numbers just have to be "close". At least for us Cheapskates. :)
Click to expand...
you're welcome. I don't think it makes any difference what you weigh, as long as each scale has the same reading when you stand on them.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
 
Make sure the whole tire is on the scales with none hanging over the edge. If you don't, and one of the tires contact patch is hanging over the edge, it would simulate that corner of the kart setting lower that it actually would if it were on the ground. That would give you false numbers.

Brian #89
 
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